142 Henry

With some

fanfare, The Garfield Building – otherwise known as 142 Henry Street,

on the lower Lower East Side – had its first open house this afternoon.

I’d been keeping an eye on it for some time, since it’s a beautiful building

– at least on the outside – with fantastic views in a neighborhood

which, against the Manhattan odds, has still managed to keep it real. A tasteful

renovation which really respected the building and the location could easily

have been something of an architectural triumph.

It was not to be. The Garfield Building, in its latest incarnation, is a paragon

of obnoxiousness, the epitome of everything that is soulless and evil about

yuppification gentrification. Rather than take any cues from the rich

architectural heritage of the Lower East Side, the apartments in the building

are bland modernist spaces with no original features at all. Actually, scratch

that: there is one original feature left – the stairwell, with a lovely

wrought iron balustrade. Other than that, everything’s clean straight white

lines and a light maple flooring. ("We’re putting on the final coat,"

apologised one of the sales agents when we got to the model apartment, explaining

why we had to take our shoes off.)

The photograph above comes straight

from the official website:

it’s the model view of the model apartment. And it’s dominated by those brand-new

square white beams, both horizontal and vertical, which might look fine in a

house by Frank Lloyd Wright, but which seem utterly out of place in a manufacturing

building built 92 years ago.

It’s worth calling bullshit on the official

floorplans, too. For one thing, there ain’t no way the floor-throughs are

1900 square feet. We’re actually given the exterior dimensions of the building:

25′ wide by 84’7" long. We’re also told

that the perimeter walls are 18" thick. So knock three feet off each axis,

and you have a gross interior per floor of 1,794 square feet. Then subtract

the elevator and stairwell, call it 200 square feet there, and you have a total

area inside the apartment of maybe 1,600 square feet if you include everything

from closets to the area underneath interior walls.

And, of course, the developers have been very careful not to include any interior

walls in their show apartment. If you actually want a bedroom with a door, or

heaven forfend you need any closet space, suddenly the beautiful

long vistas disappear. Even if you’re happy with a one-space loft-style

layout, your guests still have to navigate a very narrow kitchen before getting

to the bathroom.

Realistically, however, most people will build at least one bedroom, if not

two. And just look at the proposed two-bedroom layout: both of the bedrooms

are, not to put too fine a point on it, tiny. If I’m spending $1.675 million

on a Lower East Side apartment, (and that’s before all manner of closing fees

and transfer and mansion taxes), I think I’m going to want a lot more space

than this. Hell, for $2.5 million I can get a 4-story townhouse

on Broome Street, complete with private garden and at almost 3,000 square feet

of usable space.

If you’re any kind of art collector, of course, you couldn’t even dream of

moving to the Garfield Building: there aren’t any walls to put your art on.

Maybe if you’re a would-be Tribeca loft-dweller who’s been priced out of Tribeca

and will make do with the other side of the island, this might work for you.

(But there aren’t any fancy restaurants south of East Broadway, I’m afraid.)

Most likely, the developers are hoping to snare a handful of twentysomething

Wall Street traders, their seven-figure bonus burning a hole in their pocket,

looking for a snazzy bachelor pad not too far from the financial district.

I wish them luck: this building has taken many years to get to this point,

and it’s clearly something of a labor of love on the part of Ron Castellano

and Christopher Hayes, who are the owners, the architects, and the general contractors,

all rolled up into one. I’m just a little wistful for what might have been:

apartments which retained some kind of Lower East Side feel, which might have

been larger than those down the street but which weren’t trying to import a

whole new aesthetic. As it is, we can place 142 Henry next to 7

Essex as condo developments where rich yuppies can slum it on the LES while

living in a beautiful white bubble far removed from the reality of the street.

Really, it’s obscene.

Posted in Culture | 18 Comments

Tourists!

I’ve had in mind to write this piece all week but every day something new

arises that makes the week even more extraordinary. So much so that the initial

inspiration now almost smacks of the ordinary. So I’ll just list them as they

arose.

On Tuesday, we had record warm temperatures. I am almost ashamed to admit

that temperatures soared above freezing to +0.3C. There was water on the platform,

beads of condensation drops dribbling down windows, snow so soft it was soggy

and you sunk into it wherever you walked. It felt like a rainy day, we were

all too warm, and it was not in any way pleasant. At the lab, we had to open

all our doors and windows to stop overheating and all my lovingly collected

snow samples melted before we could get them to safe refuge in the tunnels.

I had to analyse the samples all evening for those molecules that undergo chemical

change during melting. Nothing I wore was suitable and I was dripping with sweat

after walking home from the lab.

Water! We were not impressed. We will ofcourse be even less impressed when

the truly cold temperatures return as everything that got wet will freeze solid.

Only then did I realise how much we take this dry environment for granted. Everything

that’s solid is happily left outside. The only real dangers are freezing or

being buried by snow. But it’s dry snow. Toolboxes, skis, items of clothing,

bags of rope, cardboard boxes, waste food, sleeping bags even.. stuff you would

never leave outside at home is regularly left out on the platform or the base

of steps before being moved on elsewhere. This week, for the first time in at

least a year, things got wet outside.

On Thursday the melt-tank was completely drained for its annual cleaning.

Gallons and gallons of water just being thrown out. The melt-tank at the summer

accomodation was filled, washing machines were in continual use and, my favourite,

we were allowed long, hot showers. I was looking forward to it all day. A shower

more than 2 minutes long, not having to turn the taps off while sudsing up,

being able to stand and soak. But you know what, I couldn’t do it! And I wasn’t

the only one. Try as I might, rational reason that there was, I couldn’t keep

the water running while washing my hair. I just couldn’t watch all that fresh

snowmelt go down the drain even though I knew it was headed that way anyway.

I made up for it though by running it about 5 times between soapings and staying

in there until my fingers went wrinkly. The start of the winter was marked by

our melt-tank party, the end by long showers. This for me is still the ultimate

luxury.

On Friday night our clocks went back by three hours. Three extra hours in

bed! Halley is fairly close to the meridian so GMT actually suits us fine and

there really is no need for us to change clocks since we have continual light.

We change for logistical reasons, to be in synch with Rothera and the ships,

and I guess the 24 hours of sunlight means we shouldn’t really be bothered either

way. It doesn’t affect me too much but I know the met-folk who have to launch

a weather ballon every morning such that it reaches a certain height by midday

GMT are less than pleased! Anyway, the special thing was the extra three hours.

Summer is coming.

And now that you have a taste for the things that make my life special down

here, I’ll tell you about the really extraordinary thing that happened. A tourist

ship popped by! No, really. The first one ever. And not just any old ship, this

ship has zodiacs and helicopters (yes, plural) and as far as I can tell is stuffed

full of rich fat americans. It’s a terrible stereotype but I’ll be able to tell

you the truth of it in about an hour. The organisers of the tour have been great,

I can’t fault them, they’ve invited us to the ship, offered to fly us there

even and put on a barbeque for us, anything we ask. BAS said no but only after

lots of excitement and anticipation had built up as you can imagine. Something

to do with fraternising with the tourist industry or some such nonsense shrouded

in arguments around health and safety. I don’t fault or begrudge anyone along

the line but really, this is an unprecedented opportunity. I went to the airstrip

last night as the first group left and climbed inside the chopper just for a

look around. Climbing out is one of the hardest things I’ve had to do all year

("no-one will miss you for a couple of hours will they", Danielle,

the South african expedition leader, asked with a wink). No, they wouldn’t,

and I could. It’s just a sign of what a great winter we’ve had, and how much

resepct I have for Russ, our winter base commander, that I didn’t. And no-one

did.

The next day we had a hundred yellow jacketed toursit on base. One asked me

if I felt like an emperor penguin,- all that solitude and then all these cameras

and tourists? As vivid as an imagination as I have, I must admit I had no answer.

Another asked me when women were introduced to the base since he couldn’t see

any females in any of the winter photos on the wall that date since 1958. I

said it was around 1995 but that after a winter here the women look like men

so you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. He replied "oh, really?".

But there were rays of light as well. The first dear I met was 83 (41 years

in Germany followed by 42 in England she told me as she ran up the steps while

her companion nearly had a cardiac arrest behind her) and reminded me of all

my most loved relatives. She was petite and spritely and inquisitive, interested

and so alive. She held my hand and kissed my face and asked really good questions

and told me about having to pee into a bottle when she went ot the South Pole.

Around this time I realised that these folk weren’t on a trip of a lifetime

(not a unrealistic assumption at $25,000/month) but rather had almost all been

on several similar crusies previously, if not every year since retirement.

The Halley visitors book started in 1999 and on Saturday morning had three

pages filled in. The first was dated December ’99 from the "first ever

Australian National Antarctic Research Expedition". The second was November

2000 by three tourists who arrived by plane between Rothera and ‘Blue One’.

The third was February 2004, the Argentines who arrived by helicopter last summer.

We now have five more pages filled with autographs – thirty-eight in all,

representing the hundred odd folk who came through. They all seem happy to have

come here, they all know it’s something special. My favourite says: Having worked

in isolation myself, may I observe that you do not need to be crazy to work

in a place like this, but it certainly helps.

We didn’t get an amazing jolly, it’s a shame, but we did get fruit. Oh yeah,

and in the madness and mayhem a plane arrived from Neumayer carrying three BAS

personnel who have since stayed. I guess they were expecting a fanfare welcome

but instead they just got shimmied along with the masses. Winterers are supposed

to be "woken up" gently at this time of year by a select group of

folk who speak to us in monosyllabic words and absorb rants like sanitary pads.

I prefer our method – a hundred tourists, a box of wine, a fresh apple

in the morning and many happy, if bizarre memories. If that doesn’t wake you

up, nothing will!

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 3 Comments

Rhetoric corner: Tavis Smiley on Nas

From preachers in Birmingham to rap stars in the Bronx, it has long been the

case that many of America’s greatest rhetoricians have been black. In the Democratic

primaries, the manner in which Al Sharpton effortlessly showed up his opponents

was, frankly, embarrassing. On the pop charts, Public Enemy and their successors

changed forever the way in which popular musicians can speak to a mass audience.

And over at National Public Radio, the fastest-growing program for the past

few years – indeed, the fastest-growing radio show in NPR history –

has been that of Tavis Smiley, a black radio host whose racially-charged programming

found an audience of 900,000 listeners a week, most of them white.

Smiley has now decided to leave

NPR, claiming that the network has "has simply failed to meaningfully reach

out to a broad spectrum of Americans". In a short interview

about his decision in Time magazine, Smiley essentially says that he didn’t

want to be the token black at NPR, and he saw precious little evidence that

the rest of the network was taking its stated commitment to a more diverse audience

seriously.

What interests me, however, is Smiley’s choice of words when he’s asked what

he thinks of being namechecked on

the new Nas album: he says he felt "stupid" and "humbled".

Far be it from me to lecture any African American on the subject of humility,

but are these really the mots juste? "when a rapper drops my name

in a song and says something positive, I’m humbled," says Smiley: why should

that be? The reaction of most of us, I’m sure, would be quite the opposite.

My suspicion is that "humbled" has a second meaning, which is almost

the opposite of its primary

meaning. Look at George Galloway (another great public speaker, as it happens),

after winning his libel case in the UK high court, saying

that "I am glad and somewhat humbled to discover that there is at least

one corner of the English field which remains uncorrupted and independent and

that corner is in this courtroom." Galloway isn’t using "humbled"

literally here. He hasn’t been humiliated by the court: in fact, the court agreed

with him entirely. What he means is that he feels that he’s managed to find

an entity greater than himself, one to whom he can happily cede authority.

Smiley’s use of "humbled", I think, is similar. It’s become something

of a cliché for politicians to claim

humility upon their election or appointment to senior posts: it’s just another

iteration of the "you’re not working for me, I’m working for you"

speech. Just as Galloway was placing himself below the high court, so do these

people place themselves below those who elected them. In Smiley’s case, maybe

he’s simply saying that being namechecked by Nas only serves to remind him that

there are greater black communicators out there, Nas being one of them.

Even so, I think maybe Smiley goes a little bit far when he says that Nas’s

song made him feel "stupid". This is not irony, nor is it even antiphrasis,

really. It’s probably closer to false modesty, but even that’s not quite right:

no matter how undistinguished or mediocre a person you are, being namechecked

by Nas does not make you feel stupid. If Smiley considered himself a nonentity

in relation to Nas, then his natural reaction to hearing the song would probably

be closer to pride.

Still, it’s interesting to examine the literal implication of Smiley’s words.

What sort of a person would genuinely feel stupid upon hearing the song, and

would literally feel humbled by it? The answer is someone who considered himself

superior to Nas in every way: such a person would think it stupid that a mere

rapper would presume to compliment him in a song, and would feel, perhaps, dragged

down to the rapper’s level in the process.

Now I’m not for a minute suggesting that Smiley feels that way. But I do wonder

if we’re not seeing a new rhetorical device here: call it false hubris. The

idea, I suppose, might be that if you implausibly claims emotions only a raving

egomaniac would actually feel, then you’re not a raving egomaniac, and in fact

you’re probably just a cool, regular guy.

Of course, I’m almost certainly taking a throwaway five-minute conversation

with a newsmagazine journalist far too seriously. Most likely, Smiley was simply

trying to say something along the lines of "I don’t consider myself worthy

of this honour", without sounding pompous and, well, stupid. It’s just

interesting to see how someone hailed as one of the great communicators of our

day actually went about doing so.

Posted in Culture | 3 Comments

Bootleg billions update

I wanted to ask the New York comptroller about the questions I raised in my

bootleg billions blog, so

I cast around for a respectable print publication I could do some reporting

for. The New York Sun bit, and said they’d

like to run the piece as an op-ed, so I got to work. I added some stuff I’d

forgotten to put in the original blog, fixed some dodgy trade-account figures,

and generally tightened things up. I also phoned the New York comptroller’s

office, but all I got out of them was a statement ducking any of my substantive

questions and saying that they stand by their numbers.

The piece ran in the New York

Sun this morning; it’s behind a subscriber firewall, however, so I’ve mirrored

it here. I first gave them

1100 words for one bit of the page; they then decided that they were going to

run it down the left-hand column instead, so I trimmed it to 950 words. All

went well: I even got an email titled "1st Edit for Read-back" to

make sure that I was happy with the final version. Here’s the final paragraph,

as they showed it to me before going to press:

That, of course, is pretty stupid. Estimates of the global trade in counterfeit

goods are only as good as their underlying data, which

necessarily must come from component states and municipalities. If the best

that New York can do is to work down from the global estimates, rather than

producing its own bottom-up analyses, then the main lesson that we can learn

from the whole exercise is that none of these numbers really means anything

at all.

When I picked up the paper this morning, however, the paragraph had been changed,

and now reads as follows:

That is hard to credit. Estimates of the global trade in counterfeit goods

are only as good as their underlying data, which necessarily must come from

component states and municipalities. We’re all for trying to block counterfeiting.

It’s a serious problem. But if the best that New York can do is to work down

from the global estimates, rather than producing its own bottom-up analyses,

then the main lesson that we can learn from the whole exercise is that none

of these numbers really means anything at all.

The New York Sun is trying to make a name for itself as a hard-hitting, feisty

newspaper, but it seems that even signed op-ed contributors aren’t allowed to

say that something is "stupid": now I know what "hard to credit"

really means when you see it in print.

I have a much bigger issue, however, with the two sentences that the Sun added

without running them by me at all – the ones which say "We’re all

for trying to block counterfeiting. It’s a serious problem." Firstly, there’s

no reason why the royal "we" should be used in a signed op-ed. I’m

not speaking for anybody else: I’m speaking for myself. I have no idea to whom

this "we" is supposed to refer: presumably it’s some inchoate group

of right-thinking individuals.

It speaks volumes, I think, that the Sun felt no compunction at all in adding

those sentences: it probably didn’t even occur to them that I might not be against

counterfeiting, or might not agree that it’s a serious problem. Actually, I

have very little opinion on the usefulness of trying to block counterfeiting:

in a world of competing priorities, I’m far from convinced that there aren’t

better things for law-enforcement agencies to be doing with their time. And

as for calling it a "serious problem", well, the entire thrust of

the article was that no one has a clue whether it’s a serious problem or not.

The big intellectual-property (IP) debate – call it EFF

vs Disney – is something that we bloggers are well aware of. In the real

world, however – and for these purposes we can assume that the New York

Sun op-ed page is part of that – I think there’s more of a kneejerk feeling

that strong IP laws are the bedrock of any advanced civilisation, and that fakes,

knockoffs and the like are a grave threat. My argument in the op-ed was not

that fakes are good, of course, it was simply that the anti-fake crew’s numbers

are bad. So I can see why the editors might have wanted to make that clear.

But, just for the record, I do not believe that counterfeiting is a serious

problem. A problem, maybe: a serious problem, no. Maybe if there were any reliable

statistics on it, I might change my mind.

Posted in Finance | 2 Comments

Getting chilly

It is all too easy for gnarly Antarticans emerging from a dark and cold winter

to become dissmissive and patronising about the soft summer with all its light

and relative warmth. "You think this is cold?", I was regularly asked

by t-shirt beclad locals upon first arriving while I was bundled up in multiple

thermal layers. "This is nothing!".

Well, I have a new theory. I think we have a limit of coldness beyond which

we’re not happy to pass whether it’s minus forty-five or four outside. And last

night was a clear example. A windy, blowy night but only -5C, Vanessa and I

decided to sleep in the igloo. "Why, you won’t even need sleeping bags

in this weather!" people laughed, and it was true, I was looking forward

to being toasty warm in my sleeping bag that night. The entrance to the igloo

has become quite narrow during the year and involves a bit of climbing to get

in so we thinned down our usually massive "p-bag" to its core components

and each took one foam mat, one sheepskin and one four-season down sleeping

bag. The same as usual therefore, minus the thermarest and fleece sleeping bag

liner but after all, it was at least twenty degrees warmer than we usually slept

outside in.

The igloo was as magical as I remembered. There is now a fairly steep chute

down into the entrance tunnel and a bit of a crawl before you climb into the

large circular cave that used to be above ground level and is now almost buried.

The blue light shning through most bricks has been replaced by opaque white

and soot from past visitors (I’m afraid Kev and I are responsble for the majority

of the soot after our adventures lighting the tilly lamp at midwinter in -43C!)

Outside the igloo, snow has covered the bricks so it now just looks like a

little hill, useful for jumping off on a snowboard. Inside, ice crystals have

grown all over the surface covering the walls, the soot, the shelf at the entrance

– from little strings of crystals to great big pentagon spirals. I guess

there is growth and evolution even in barren Antartctica!

Once we bundled in, we set up for the night. There wasn’t any obvious need

for a stove or lamp since it was warm and light already and we’d eaten dinner

before leaving but we lit a couple of candles for ambience and chatted away

through the evening. I did notice it was colder than comfortable though but

then, unlike usual we hadn’t brought great big coats with us or rabbit skin

hats,- it just hadn’t seemed necessary. Fairly quickly we were snug inside our

sleeping bags and I was confident warmth would be upon me soon. And so it went

on. You’re cold because you’re wearing too many clothes and the sleeping bag

can’t work its wonders, I thought around midnight. You’re cold because the air

is leaking in, I thought around two am. Why are you cold you big girly wuss,

I asked at four am and put a single thermal layer on as a compromise. It must

be because I’m not wearing a hat.. so I pulled my neckie over my head. And so

on and so forth. I was never ridiculously uncontrollably stupidly unbearably

shiveringly cold, just uncomfortable and certainly not snuggly warm and that

was not right. Not at minus 4 or 10 or whatever it was.

Ness and I had talked about this in the evening,- there’s this limit within

which you work and allow yourself to work and beyond which you avoid. For instance,

I handled the metal thermoses we brought with bare hands. In winter, I would

have been wearing glove liners and massive mitts to do the same job. I let my

face lie open to the air as I went to sleep where in winter I would have devised

a complete coccoon for myself. I let myself, and this was my downfall I believe,

roll off the sheepskin and onto the snow. At this point there could have only

been a few feathers of squashed down between my naked skin and 50m of ice shelf.

Even a tent has a groundsheet and, I now remmber, a wooden board under the p-bag!

Today for the first time in over a year I have a chill. I am cold, I am warm,

I am not quite right. There aren’t any viruses down here, we don’t catch any

illnesses, we are incredibly healthy considering the weather we face every day.

It’s an unusual feeling, not feeling 100%, but it’s just a chill and I’ll be

right as rain (what a funny phrase that is!) by tomorrow I’m sure. A valuable

lesson though and quite refreshing: it’s still Antarctica outside and it’s still

cold. I’m quite glad actually,- life was getting a bit too easy these last couple

of weeks!

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 2 Comments

Bootleg billions

Here comes that sales tax meme

again. But whereas last year New York was losing $500 million a year in tax

revenues due to trafficking of counterfeit trademark goods, this year that number

seems to have doubled, to $1

billion a year. The New York Times reported the New York comptroller’s office

uncritically,

but as far as I’m concerned it still fails the smell test. So I downloaded the

full

report to see how they got at their numbers.

The first thing I noticed was that the report said that "New Yorkers paid

$23 billion for counterfeit goods during 2003", thereby depriving the city

of $380 million in unpaid sales tax revenue. These two numbers alone don’t seem

to add up: $380 million is a mere 1.65% of $23 billion, while New York City’s

sales taxes are over 8%.

So where is the comptroller getting his numbers? He starts off by estimating

global trade in counterfeit goods at $456 billion, or 6% of gross world trade.

For that number, he cites an estimate of 5-7% from the International Chamber

of Commerce. Then, he estimates the size of the US counterfeit trade at $287

billion, leaving us to assume that somehow he’s using the same estimate. He’s

not. In 2003,

US imports were $256 billion, while exports were $307 billion. Add those two

numbers together and you have US trade totalling $563 billion; 6% of that is

a mere $34 billion. (It’s worth noting that the comptroller is actually saying

that the size of the US market in counterfeit and bootleg goods is — rather improbably, one has to say —

greater than all of the USA’s imports put together.)

Alternatively, let’s say that the $456 billion figure is correct, and the US

accounts for its proportional share of that amount weighted not by foreign trade

(for the US is not a particularly open economy in that respect) but rather by

GDP. In 2003, US GDP was $10.9 trillion, while world GDP was $36.4 trillion.

On that basis, the US share of global trade in counterfeit goods would be $136

billion, still less than half of the number the comptroller actually uses.

So where does the $287 billion figure – the basis for all the comptroller’s

subsequent calculations – come from? All the report says is that "this

estimate is based upon an update of a 1996 estimate of US losses," footnoting

a 1996 article in that well-respected statistsical digest, Fortune

magazine.

When you go to the article, it says only that "federal and industry surveys

indicate that America’s annual losses from the problem have quadrupled over

the past decade to a staggering $200 billion", without getting any more

specific than that. The comptroller’s "update" clearly consisted of

adding $87 billion to that figure to make it seem like less of a rond number.

But even assuming that the $200 billion number was accurate and not exaggerated,

there’s a huge difference between losses and sales. If I sell a bootleg copy

of Adobe’s Creative Suite for $20, Adobe’s loss is $1,200, while my sales are,

well, $20.

Nevertheless, the comptroller clearly says that New Yorkers are shelling out

$23 billion in cash for counterfeit and bootlegged goods, based not on sales

estimates but on loss estimates. He’s clearly comparing apples with oranges,

and he equally clearly knows that he’s doing it: the way that he buries the

numbers in his report shows that he’s rather embarrassed about their source.

Once he comes up with his spurious $287 billion number, of course, his deductions

are easy. New York City accounts for 4% of US GDP, counterfeiting is twice as

prevalent in New York as it is in the economy as a whole, therefore New York

City’s trade in counterfeit goods is 8% of $287 billion, or $23 billion. (In

fact, he even refers to it at one point as $22.9 billion, making the estimate

seem more accurate still.)

Nowhere does the comptroller explain why he’s using a multiplier of 2 on New

York’s share of trade in counterfeit goods, rather than 1.5, say, or even 3

or 4 or 10. There’s simply a bald statement: "The Comptroller’s Office

estimates that New York City’s share of the US counterfeit goods trade

is twice its share of gross product". Not even a footnote, this time. In

general, absolutely none of the comptroller’s estimates come from hard facts

on the ground: all of them take broader extrapolations from the country or even

the world as a whole, and then work out what New York’s share of that might

be.

That, of course, is pretty stupid. Estimates of the global trade in counterfeit

goods are only as good as their underlying data, which necessarily must come

from component states and municipalities. If the best that New York can do is

to work down from the global estimates, rather than producing its own bottom-up

analyses, then the main lesson that we can learn from the whole exercise is

that none of these numbers really means anything at all.

If the comptroller had stopped to think, he might have realised that his numbers

seemed unrealistically large. His own report says that "the City’s

sales tax revenue per resident totaled $440 in 2000", which implies total

taxed spending per resident of about $5,300, at a sales tax rate of 8.25%. With

8 million residents, that in turn means about $42.7 billion in total legal spending.

If spending on counterfeit goods indeed is now $23 billion, then it would account

for more than half of legal spending, and more than a third of total spending.

No one, surely, spends more than a third of their total spent income on fake

goods. If the comptroller’s estimates are right, then for every dollar you spent

on hotels and restaurants, in bodegas and department stores, in wine shops and

music shops, on cars or bicycles or skateboards, you would, on average, spend

54 cents on counterfeit and bootlegged goods. Which is clearly ridiculous.

As ever, however, if an official agency throws lots of official numbers at

the press corps, the journalists will lap

them up and not ask any questions. The correct response to the New York

comptroller’s press release would have been to ask him why we should believe

anything he says, given the obvious garbage that he is spouting here. Instead,

the press simply repeated his numbers, without any indication that they might

be suspect. In the end, both the comptroller and the press end up looking stupid.

Posted in Finance | 2 Comments

Contact!

Yes, its true, it’s true, it really is. And you had to hear about it from someone

elses web diary! Apologies. The winter is officially over; we’ve had our

first visitors. It’s true. Bizarre, odd, quite nice to see friendly faces and

wonderful to see mail… strangely normal, just right, and then they left.

Two Dornier planes arrived at 18:32 and 18:40 zulu last Saturday each carrying

two pilots and an engineer on their way to the German station, Neumayer. We

knew they were meant to be coming but didn’t really expect to see them as the

weather was pretty rotten here all day. Truth be told, I don’t think British

planes would have come in similar conditions, especially considering what great

weather we’ve been having lately.

Anyway, they flew from Punta Arenas to Rothera on Friday (6 hours?), Rothera

to Halley on Saturday (5 hours) and then left us an hour later to reach Neumayer

about three hours later. Suddenly made me feel very close to the rest of the

world, very accessible, not at all isolated. And I missed the comfort of isolation.

It is over. Have we been this accessible the whole time? Was the darkness just

on our imaginations? No, I reminded myself, no, we were inaccessible, it is

remote, in the winter Antarctica is twice the size it is now and the sea ice,

darkness and temperatures would make it nigh on impossible to visit. Phew. I

don’t know why I was glad to know that but it seems I’m not quite ready for

the reality of reality quite yet. Soon, but not yet.

Where was I? The Dorniers. Ah yes. Yes, it was exciting. We all bundled off

to the skiway, the skiway that has been created in the past few weeks. Drums

have been laid as a runway, a caboose fired up for the air mechs and poor old

Gareth has been lovingly grooming that patch of snow to make it nice and flat

for weeks it seems. And then someone pointed to the sky. There it was, just

like a toy plane. It was a toy plane! Low contrast and lots of whiteness around

us meant it really looked like you could reach out and pick it up. No perspective,

remember? Then we heard the buzz just before it dropped out of the sky and stopped.

At the second drum. Gareth was not amused! Plane number one tootled off to refuel

and plane number two eventually appeared. This one seemed to confuse which drumline

was the skiway to start with and we thought he might land on the Laws by mistake.

But no, around he came, lower and lower, a beautiful descent and long cruise

past 10 drums before turning off. Much better. My favourite part is when the

pilots or passengers wave to you while still in the air. It’s all so close!

After the whirring stopped they all climbed out, smiling and friendly. A box

of bits, a bag of post, stories of the other world (nothing has changed) and

then huddle off to phone Neumayer and discuss matters of import. We had flown

the flag, made the beds, prepared for a party.. but no, they were going to try

and continue on to Neumayer that night. Fair enough, it was great to see them

for the hour or two they were here and they’ll be popping by on their way back

anyway.

By the time they left, I was cold. I hadn’t dressed right for standing outside

not doing much. I was cold, but I was also happy to be cold – it’s been

so warm lately I feared I would never be cold again! I wear the same clothes

as I did the last two summers but am literally dripping, melting. T-shirts under

overalls are now all you need outside. It’s funny to notice yourself change

– last year I didn’t understand these people who wore only two layers

at -10 or -20C, I thought they were showing off but must be cold really. Now

really, I am melting on my way back from the lab in the clothes I wore last

year. Funny.

We came back, we warmed up and ate some dinner. And then to the post. I received

letters sent last January, letters sent a few weeks ago, birthday cards, christmas

cards, hello cards… lots of smiles, a few happy tears, everyone was a bit

nostalgic that night. And it’s true, when the planes come in, the summer starts,

you know it all will be coming to an end soon… it does change things. In some

ways for the better: there have been more social evenings, more time spent really

talking, more time spent actively enjoying our current peace. In some ways worse:

we all become that bit lazier, a few more home-truths come out, that extra effort

exerted early on is gone… but it’s ok, it’s comfortable, thankfully we have

a very solid team of winterers this year. Still, the time is coming, I feel

it and to my surprise, I’m ready for it. I’m ready to leave now.

Looking forward to seeing you soon!

PS Thanks for all the great cards from all around the world!

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 3 Comments

Credit cards

The reason there was barely a recession at all following the US stock-market

meltdown of 2000-2001 is usually explained by talk of "consumer spending".

It would probably, however, it would be more accurate to thank credit cards

instead. Most consumer spending is on credit cards in the US; what’s more, all

credit-card spending is considered consumer spending, even when the cards are

used for business purposes.

The credit boom in the US – according to an eye-opening New

York Times article today, credit-card charges increased from $338 billion

in 1990 to $1.525 trillion in 2003 – has certainly helped to fuel the

expansion of not only the US but also the global economy. It has also, however,

destroyed most of the trust that Americans have in their lenders.

When your lender is your local bank, you know the manager, the bank knows you

personally, and everybody is very clear on what your credit line and interest

rate is. When you borrow on a credit card, you might not even be sure what company

is issuing the card, you almost certainly have never talked to anybody at the

company, and both your credit line and interest rate can be altered at the sole

discretion of the card issuer. The New York Times has egregious examples, like

Ed Schwebel, whose interest rate went from 9.2% to 18% overnight, despite the

fact that he always paid his credit-card bill on time. Steve Strachan, meanwhile,

had his interest rate hiked from 5.25% to 20.21%, again without him ever making

a late payment. The new rate was so high that if he paid the minimum amount

each month, his total debt would go up even if he didn’t spend any money on

his credit card at all – and since the credit card company was steadily

reducing his credit limit to just above his balance, paying the minimum would

mean exceeding the limit and incurring penalty fees.

Probably smartly, most of the major credit-card companies refused to comment

for the New York Times story. They did find one chap, however, willing to put

his foot in his mouth:

Andrew Kahr, a financial services consultant who devised some widely used

consumer-lending strategies, including the zero-percent teaser rates, said

consumers should be able to recognize that the business is a "game of

chance."

Lending, I think it’s fair to say, should never be a "game of

chance", especially when credit-card companies, in a search for growth,

are pushing the envelope of creditworthiness when it comes to their cardholders,

both by issuing cards to riskier credits and by increasing credit limits more

or less across the board.

The broader problem, however, is that credit cards are now performing a role

they were never designed for in the first place. For those of us who pay off

our balance in full every month, they’re very useful things. For many individuals

and small business owners, however, they’re much more than that: they’re their

primary source of financing. You know the cliché about the independent

film which the director financed by maxing out his credit cards? It’s now a

reality across thousands of industries.

The weird fact is that even as credit has been expanding rapidly across the

US economy, individuals and small business owners are finding it as hard as

ever – if not actually more difficult – to get a loan from the bank.

Banks are not actively telling their customers that if they want more

credit they should sign up for a Visa card, of course, but they don’t need to.

For millions of Americans, credit cards are the only credit they can get.

We’re not talking small sums of money here, either. Many small business owners

carry six-figure revolving sums on their various cards; Steve Strachan, meanwhile,

was being charged $1,500 a month in finance charges alone, on a balance of $77,000.

In today’s low interest rate environment, such interest rates can reasonably

be considered usurious: the bank’s cost of funds for that $77,000 is maybe $130

a month, which means they’re charging a markup of somewhere over 1,000%.

Many small business owners are hard-working, talented individuals who, like

most people, don’t like thinking about money very much. The genius of the American

economy is that the main criterion for becoming a successful landscape gardener,

say, is being a good landscape gardener, rather than being someone with a head

for figures. But the explosion in credit-card debt in the US is essentially

a tax on financial ignorance. Fee revenue on credit cards alone has now exceeded

$20 billion a year – that’s revenue from charging cardholders $15 for

paying their bill by phone, or $35 for getting their payment in just a few hours

late. If 144 million Americans have credit cards, that means the average

cardholder is paying over $140 a year in fees, and, assuming that the 40% of

cardholders who pay their cards off in full every month don’t get anywhere near

that figure, the fee burden for the typical "revolver" – someone

who never really pays down his balance – will be substantially higher.

More invidious still are the interest charges. Here’s an example of some calculations

which I have to do and which no bank will help you with: the situation, in which

I do sometimes find myself, where I have say a $2000 credit card bill coming

due, $1000 in the bank, and a big paycheque coming in one week. The credit card

interest rate is quite a lot lower than the bank’s overdraft facility: in the

region of 9% as opposed to 18%. But if I pay only $1000 of my credit card bill,

the remaining balance of $1000 will start accruing interest not from the day

the bill was due, but from the day the initial charges were incurred. So it’s

actually cheaper for me to pay the credit card in full and borrow $1000 from

the bank for a week than it is to pay $1000 of the credit card balance off now,

and the rest when I get paid.

I’m a financial journalist, however: I think that way. Most people, in contrast,

faced with exactly the same situation, simply pay the minimum due on the credit

card – maybe $50 – and keep a reasonable cushion of cash in their

chequing accounts. There’s some kind of internal stigma associated with a bank

overdraft, you see, which is not associated with a credit card balance, and

people would generally much rather have the latter than the former. It’s the

age-old paradox of consumer finance: someone who has $2000 in their savings

account and a $5000 credit-card balance thinks they’re saving money. And thousands

of small business owners, I’m afraid, make a less egregious but more costly

mistake: rather than go to the effort of finding a loan, they simply run up

the balance on their credit cards.

A few years ago, I realised that I wasn’t going to be able to pay off my credit

card balance that month – or the next month, either. It wasn’t a huge

amount of money, but if I’d done nothing and simply let it acccumulate as I

continued to spend more on my credit card, I would rapidly have found my debts

spiralling. Instead, I found a friendly credit union who lent me enough money

to pay off the credit card balance, and paid them back on an installment loan

over the course of a year. The most difficult thing about the whole process

was getting a mere one-year loan: everybody was trying to point me to more expensive

two-year, three-year or even five-year options. But I knew exactly what I wanted,

and eventually I found it.

US card issuers now make $30 billion a year in pretax profit on their credit

card operations. That number is so large that banks have no incentive to aggressively

sell their loan products instead: their credit cards are much more profitable.

The fewer customers they have taking out formal loans, the more customers they

will have taking out informal loans in the form of credit card debt, and the

more money they will make.

Credit cards are magnificent engines of economic growth: many economists believe

that one of the main reasons that China cannot sustain its present levels of

GDP growth much longer is precisely because consumer credit has never taken

off in the country. In the US, however, they have become an untameable monster

which actually reduces the kind of well-constructed small business finance which

could power the economy much more sustainably. Bad money drives out good, they

say, and the same is true for credit. US borrowers have become addicted to expensive

and easy debt; the banks, of course, are the willing pushers. And there’s no

rehab program in sight.

Posted in Finance | 10 Comments

Richter at Dia

I went back to Dia:Beacon on Sunday, one of those wonderfully clear and bright winter days which New York seems to specialise in. The light was streaming through the huge windows, and the John Chamberlain sculptures literally glowed. All great art benefits from repeated viewing, of course, but there’s something which makes revisiting Dia especially rich for me – maybe its something to do with the sheer simplicity of the works on show there, that you almost can’t believe how much you missed the first few times round.

It’s also weird which works grow on you and which works don’t, so much. Everybody I know who’s been to Dia has been blown away by the Sandbacks the first time they see them. It’s a bit counterintuitive, perhaps: they’re much more subtle than, say, the Heizers or the Serras, but they more than hold their own in comparison.

On repeated revisits, however, I’ve found myself spending less time with the Sandbacks, as though they’ve done pretty much all they’re going to do for me. It’s amazing what you can do with little more than a piece of string, but maybe ultimately it’s limiting as well.

This time around, it was the Richters which I really discovered for the first time. There’s definitely a sense of art overload when you go to Dia the first couple of times, and it’s hard to give the Richters the time and the concentration they deserve. If they were displayed on their own in a little chapel somewhere, you would be forced to sit down and really engage with them; as it is, they’re almost a corridor, something you pass through on your way from Donald Judd to Sol LeWitt.

It was the light which did it. Richter’s work is profoundly genuine, subtle and beautiful: he’s carefully angled a set of six pairs of gray mirror paintings so that they reflect each other, and the clerestory windows above, in different ways. On Sunday, with sharp, direct light creating reflections in reflections in reflections, it was hard not to be awed by the depth and richness of these ostensibly utterly featureless works. When I next go back to Dia, I’ll have a much better idea of what to look for, even if the light isn’t as bright.

In fact, it seems to me now that Richter, more than any other artist at Dia except, perhaps, for Robert Irwin, has really engaged with the space and created something unique and site-specific. On Monday, the day after my trip to Dia, I went along to their Chelsea location to hear the excellent Anglo-American artist and teacher Michael Craig-Martin give a talk on the subject of Donald Judd. Judd’s greatest work is permanently installed in Marfa, Texas, and Craig-Martin made a compelling case that it really engages with the landscape in much the same way as Greek temples did thousands of years ago. Judd’s work is not land art, either in the Richard Long or in the Robert Smithson sense of the word: he’s not making art out of nature. (Quite the contrary: he’s making art out of cast concrete.) Rather, Judd is siting his work very specifically in relation to the Chinati mountains outside Marfa, and setting up a tension and a dialogue in that otherwise featureless landscape.

At Dia:Beacon, which was put together long after Judd’s death, the curators basically had to fit pre-existing works into a brand new space. They did a reasonably good job, but necessarily the work doesn’t articulate and reveal the space in the way that it would had Judd been able to make something specifically for it. The Sandbacks do a better job: they force you to feel yourself walking in and around them and the room in general, and draw the eye up to the intersection between the wall and the ceiling, or down to the small cracks in the poured concrete floor, making you notice architectural features which you’d otherwise ignore. That’s really what this kind of art is all about – creating a heightened awareness of your own surroundings – and I finally realised, on Sunday, how deeply Gerhard Richter really understands the Dia mission.

Most Richters, after all, are relatively conventional paintings – objects to be admired in and of themselves, rather than as a site-specific installation. At Dia, however, Richter places himself much more in the tradition of artists like Robert Irwin and, to a lesser extent, Robert Ryman, by presenting a piece which deals much more with the room itself than with any incident on the surface of the work. The single most important part of the Richter installation, indeed, is the clerestory windows at the top of the gallery space. In contrast, most of the rest of the work at Beacon could quite easily be moved to another museum elsewhere, without losing much if any of its effect. The Sol LeWitt piece is marvellous, of course, and remains my favourite work at Dia, but it certainly doesn’t need to be there as opposed to anywhere else.

At the end of his speech, Craig-Martin talked for a little bit during the Q&A period about the way in which his own work addresses the same sort of questions. If he paints a wall green, he said, all he’s doing is creating a green wall. But if he then puts an image on it, you see the wall better. Craig-Martin’s recent work, he said, is an exercise in trying to replicate the experience of a Judd – directly experiencing the art object in space and time – while at the same time introducing something Judd religiously shunned – the pictorial element. Craig-Martin’s work oscillates between object and picture, in much the same way, I suppose, as Ed Ruscha’s oscillates between painting and word.

Both Craig-Martin and Ruscha, however, can easily be exhibited pretty much anywhere. Give Craig-Martin a gallery space, any gallery space, and he’ll start painting on the walls; his art, once exhibited at Gagosian, can then be sold to a collector and recreated in the buyer’s own home. The work is site-specific, but not uniquely so. Irwin, Judd (at Marfa), and Richter, on the other hand, have created work which really needs to be exactly where it is, otherwise it simply will not work. Marfa’s hard to get to, but Dia isn’t: next time you’re up there, spend a bit of time with the Richters. You might be surprised how good they really are.

Posted in Culture | 6 Comments

Sunburn

I got fried today. Toasted, roasted and turned on a spit. Or at least my face

did. For a team of caucasians who haven’t seen the sun for six months, and,

when they have, have had every inch of flesh covered, I didn’t think we were

that pasty. Before today. Now, as I glance in the mirror on my way to the shower,

I see black hair (freshly dyed, it was faded orange yesterday) above a bright

red face outlining dazzling white panda eyes. From my chin down again, luminous

yellow-white. Another example of how few comparisons and benchmarks we have

here. There is no perspective.

I visited the penguins again today, thousands of them cooing and trilling,

so many that an entire ice cliff was grey with their shadow. The same feeling

though: I have no perspective. The first time I saw an Emperor I was over-awed

by its majesty. Now, as my friend so succinctly put it, visiting them is like

going to the park to feed the ducks. Very pleasant – but surely there’s

something not right?!

Perspective did however visit us on our return to the cliffs, in the form

of a rogue Adelie. Scurrying about the ice, he was a mucky scruffy little thing

but I love Adelies cos they make me laugh. I can’t look at one without hearing

the clown theme-tune in my head. And next to this little buddy, the Emperors

stood tall and proud again, magestic. I guess we all serve our purpose on this

planet.

Another thing that made me laugh was the queue that formed behind our backpacks

while we walked among them. The abseil access point is perhaps 800m from the

main gaggle of penguins but there is always a small welcoming party that comes

to meet us. Usually a handful of adolescents sliding on their bellies. Once

we’ve reached the sea ice, they then often wander back to the crowd with us.

Last time, I remember just one stayed behind near the bottom of the rope. He

had obviously led the group out there and not realised that the rest had lost

interest and wandered back. Not to worrry; they picked him up again when they

escorted us back an hour or two later. [In this aspect I feel a strong affinity

with penguins,- my attention span is now so short and distraction by shiny things

so compelling that it has pretty much become part of my persona here. Hmm, I

must tell you about melt-tank someday.]

Anyway, you can see for yourself the line that had formed by the time we returned.

They really are sheep. Metaphorically… though I do like the idea of furry

penguins that bleat. The reason why they find Halley every year is because they

follow our 18km drum-line from the coast thinking each next drum might be a

relative. I believe this entirely now.

All in all, we had a lovely day at the sea-side. There was unfortunately no

candy floss or pub to warm up in but I did at least pick up some colour. And

before you chastise me too much for being a fool, yes, we did take sunscreen

but it fell on the floor of the sno-cat while driving there and was frozen solid

upon arrival.

Oh, and here’s a map for Stefan:

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 7 Comments

MoMA’s $20 admission

Greg Allen has thrown

down the gauntlet. Give him a "well-argued explanation of the damage

incurred by $20 tickets and what MoMA could/should realistically do to remedy

it," he says, and he’ll give you a pair of free passes to MoMA, good anytime

through 2005.

So, given that I can never resist a freebie, I’m going to give it a go. After

all, the free passes are worth a good $40, which means that if I get them, I’ll

have been earning an effective rate of more than two cents a word. Wahey!

First of all, MoMA is a public organisation. It might not get much in the way

of direct public subsidy (although it does get some), but it only retains its

non-profit status because it provides a service to the general public. Its purpose,

you might say, is (1) to show great art (2) to "the

widest possible audience" (3) as effectively as possible.

Now spending somewhere north of $850 million on a major renovation basically

addresses the third part of that purpose. I haven’t seen it yet, but I have

all faith that the renovation is just as wonderful as everybody says it is.

(I was going to say "spectacular" before I realised that was almost

exactly the wrong word.) I’m very pleased that MoMA now has extensive gallery

space for contemporary art and that all our old favourites will look even better

than they did before, hanging in the perfectly-formed new spaces designed for

them.

Furthermore, the "great art" part of the equation is a no-brainer:

for all that MoMA has been selling

off masterpieces

of late, it still has easily the greatest collection of modern art on the planet.

Show the Demoiselles

on its own anywhere else in the world, and I’m sure you’d have lines round the

block of people waiting to spend $10 or $15 just to see that one painting.

It’s also a no-brainer, however, that charging $20 to get in will put a lot

of people off, and that one of the best ways of attracting the widest possible

audience is to charge the lowest possible admission fee. Greg asks for specific

examples, so I’ll give him some.

  1. The artists of the future. It’s not clear how much admission for children

    will be to MoMA, but in any case there are lots of artists of the future who

    are no longer schoolkids. Great art is not something you see once, ingest,

    and move on: it’s something you return to time and time again, learning something

    new each time. A high cost of entry minimises the number of people who will

    return to their favourite works.

  2. The art-lovers of the future. Not everyone, Greg, is already as keen on

    art as you are. One of the great revelations of Tate Modern is that if a modern

    art museum is free, enormous numbers of people will turn out to enjoy it.

    Barriers to entry are bad things, and $20 is the highest barrier to entry

    in the museum world. What’s more, there’s a very strong feeling that once

    you’ve paid your $20, you should get your money’s worth. So you traipse around

    every single gallery, spend more time reading wall panels than looking at

    art, and leave drained, exhausted, and with little if any enthusiasm for ever

    going back. You really need to be pretty cavalier with your money to spend

    $20 on MoMA admission, wander over to one painting, spend some time enjoying

    it, leave, and repeat the process as many times as you want. But that’s the

    way to really build up a love and appreciation for art.

  3. The poor. Obviously. Take, for instance, a schoolteacher trying to support

    a family in New York City. Where is that person going to find $20 to visit

    MoMA?

  4. People who aren’t (yet) interested in modern art. A $20 admission fee basically

    means you’re preaching to the converted. People who know what lies on the

    other side of the turnstiles might be willing to cough up; people who don’t,

    on the other hand, will simply stay away.

Greg also gets invidious when he starts talking about how much a ticket to

MoMA is "worth". In the art world, you see, things are worth whatever

someone is willing to pay. And I’m sure that even if ticket prices went up to

$2,000, there would still be people willing to pay that in order to be able

to visit the new MoMA. Clearly, the idea of trying to put a value on a MoMA

ticket is impossible.

There’s also the idea, which has been lurking in the background of the debate

all along, and which is implicit in the fact that the price hike coincides with

the reopening, that a bigger and better museum helps to justify the $20 admission

fee. Greg, in his post, goes on at some length about the insane amounts of money

which have been poured into MoMA over the past couple of years, as though it’s

somehow the job of MoMA’s visitors to amortize the costs of construction.

In fact, it’s simply not true that admission to large museums can or should

be more expensive than admission to small museums. We have all experienced museum

fatigue: beyond a certain size, it becomes impossible or inadvisable to try

to see any more art in one go. The Guggenheim might charge more money per square

foot, but the fact is that a good Guggenheim show is all that one person can

comfortably take in in one go. The Frick, to take another example, does not

have an enormous collection, but size doesn’t matter. A visitor gets just as

much out of a visit to the Frick or the Guggenheim as they do out of a visit

to MoMA.

There are many, many reasons, then, why MoMA should be actively encouraging

repeat visits. For one thing, they’re the only way it’s really possible to see

all the artworks on show. Moreover, if visitors come for one of the big shows,

they’ll probably not bother with the permanent collection at all. And if someone

does spend $20 to come in and have a look around, and sees something they like,

it should be as easy as possible for them to come back and really learn to appreciate

it.

Greg asked for ideas about what MoMA should do, so here are some.

  1. Make tickets valid for two days, rather than one. (If necessary, ask people

    to sign their ticket when they get it, and then again when they want to reuse

    it the following day.)

  2. Make memberships much cheaper. $75 is a very large amount of money to spend

    up front on museum admission. Bring that number down a lot – to $25,

    say – and you’ll have many more people taking advantage of membership

    and really using the museum as a resource.

  3. Allow people to pay for their membership over time, either on some kind

    of installment basis, or through ticket purchases. Set things up so that when

    you visit the museum for the third or fourth time in a year, you can trade

    in your ticket stubs for a membership back-dated to your first visit.

Most importantly, however, MoMA should get its priorities straight. At the

moment, it seems 100% about getting the architecture perfect, and 0% about making

it as accessible to as many people as possible. How come the trustees were asked

to come up with hundreds of millions of dollars for renovation, but nothing

at all to help bring down ticket prices? The architect, Yoshio Taniguchi, famously

told MoMA that if they gave him a lot of money, he would build a great museum;

if they gave him even more, he would make the architecture disappear. At that

point, some hard questions should have been asked about how to spend that extra

couple of hundred million dollars. Was invisible architecture the way to go?

Or should it have been spent instead on bringing down ticket prices?

Glen Lowry expects about two million visitors a year, paying $20 each. That’s

$40 million in ticket revenue. Cut the ticket price in half, and the number

of visitors will increase – let’s say you’d get $25 million in ticket

revenue at $10 a ticket. The cost of that would be $15 million a year, or a

net present value of rather less than the amount that Taniguchi’s budget was

increased over the course of the construction process. And you’d get more visitors,

which, of course, is a good thing in itself.

But MoMA doesn’t seem to think that way. Rather, it was built by billionaires

so that they could look upon the greatest possible art museum they could make.

The Great Unwashed are welcome to come in, but they’ll have to pay whatever

they’ll have to pay.

Think about it this way: the last person to donate $40 million towards the

costs of construction basically made sure that the mullions were that little

bit thinner, the walls floated that little bit more perfectly, the wood floors

were that much more expensive and perfectly polished. Alternatively, they could

have put that money towards making the entire museum free to everybody for a

full year. It’s obvious to me which would have been the better use of money.

And it should be obvious to Greg as well.

Posted in Culture | 13 Comments

Post-winter trip

Post-winter trip I: Ropes and Rumples

So, I’m back! Fully rested and relaxed, we had a great time away: a lot

of playing, a bit of learning, lots of new sights and a refreshing time off

base. A break for them and us! It’s difficult to know where to begin really

as I have a kaleidoscope of images and memories flying around my head in antarctic

technicolour (white, white and white). We started at the Rumples, big rumply

ice, and spent the week gently moving around the coast. A seaside holiday indeed!

Like mountains and ocean at home, I am still happiest at the sea, even if the

water is all still frozen. The Rumples were bergs and blocks, cracks and slots,

chaos, cubes and jumble. Smooth smooth ice flowing to the coast, pulled in towards

this anchor point, CRACK! Standing on the cliff top I see ruptures, crevasses,

sea ice, cliffs, boulders. Past the rumply ice is the ocean flat with steam

rising off it. Next to the grey pancake ice it looks exactly like rolling waves

approaching a flat sandy beach.

Down in the creek there are faces in the ice smiling gently while we explore.

“Do you see the face?”, I call to my companions? “No, it’s

obscured, just around the corner”, Ed replies. No, the face the face.

The beautiful moonface of a woman in the icecliffs. We all see something different

here I’m sure. I thank her for allowing us to visit and pay my respects

to the canyon people.

This is the place where the photos I sent last week were from. The faces and

ice cubes, the lovely long abseil down a cliff. In the sky you see black and

white: dark water-sky reflecting open water over the ocean, white reflecting

the ice. Even at Halley we are aware of our peninsula position and read the

changing coastline in the sky. On the ground, white, white, flat and dull. There

are crevasses between this point and the tent but you can’t see them.

It is amzing, the loss of contrast comes in so quickly, within minutes, and

suddenly you realise how dangerous this place could potentially be.

What I learn at the Rumples, however, wasn’t a fear of crevasses and

ice, but rather a delight in them, confidence in and respect for the the safety

techniques used. Walking gently, roping up, being ever ready to catch your fall

with an ice axe. Proudly, I found more cracks than anyone else. Notably, this

wasn’t the purpose of the walk!

So our first day at the Rumples we explored a newly forming creek. On our

second day we went for a walk. The contrast was poor again so we couldn’t

go as far as we’d hoped but it was still an adventure for me since I hadn’t

needed to walk linked by a rope before. Until now, it had only been a rehearsal.

Experienced mountaineers reading this might laugh at my naivety but it’s

the new things you learn which are filled with wonder and for me, this was knots

and ropes, crampons, ice axes and crevasses… and the places these things

can then take you to.

Now is the time to record that newness since from now on, a figure of eight

will be a useful knot for me rather than an amusing snake coiling around itself

before eating its own tail. And I’ll tell you something else though it’ll

start up more arguments, a half hitch is just an overhand but back upon itself…

and two half hitches is a clove hitch. It’s true, whatever they might

tell you. The alternative way of tying a clove hitch, if conditions allow, is

loop, loop, behind… whereas an Italian hitch, useful for descending and

belaying, is loop, loop and fold. An Italian Prussik, now, is through and through

again but a French Prussik is round and round. Ok? An alpine butterfly is used

for shortening, or putting a loop in, a long bit of rope without reducing its

strength. That’s three loops around your hand, alpha over beta and charlie,

beta over charlie and alpha and then under both, all the way back to the beginning

again. A dolly hitch looks like a butterfly but is used for putting a loop that

can slip in the middle of a rope and is easily undone. A truckers hitch does

the same job but is apparrantly “much more crude”. It’s easy

though: bite, twist, twist, twist and pull the dead end through the loop. (For

a dolly hitch you lay the bite across the live end to create a butterfly, twist

one side of the left wing around the right wing a couple of times, twist the

left wing and pull some dead rope through it. Takes a bit of practice but useful

when lashing sledges.) Descenders are used for going down a rope with a French

Prussik below, jumars are used for coming up the rope and an Italian Prussik

is tied to the rope in front of you when walking linked up.

If your buddy falls down a hole, you (obviously!) stop the fall by throwing

your weight, and an ice axe, in the other direction and hook said prussik over

the axe. Naturally confident that this will at least temporarily hold your dangling

friend, you stamp two ice stakes in the ground (tricky when you’re lying

down), connect them with a sling, clamp a jumar on the rope and, using a caribener,

clip it into the slings. All these janglies, along with four pullies and a few

ice screws, are hanging off your belt in an apparently obvious and unentangled

easy-access way. While your increased heart-rate is melting a new hole in the

ice shelf. Tightening the jumar ‘takes you out of the system’ and

voila, your friend is safe(r). If he (or she) can’t get himself out, you

set up a Z-pulley with the rest of your jingles and pull him out. And you wonder

why I was nervous before setting out?!

So anyway, as a joke after enquiring if you roped up any differently if you

were leading or following (ALL of this stuff is new to me), I said “alright

then boys, follow me” to which Ed, tied to me, said “ok, off you

go, mind those first two crevasses and then navigate us around to the view.”

?>!***!!!~~???!

What he called a crevasse, I call a canyon, or at least a huge gaping slot,

and had no intention of crossing. It thankfully narrowed and we eventually jumped

it, and the next, and the ones after that. The initial adrenalin rush, and pride

in myself, was regularly tempered by my foot slipping through yet another crack.

‘Ankle-biters’ he calls them. “I’ve found one”,

I’d call with a huge grin on my face. Simon, Craig and I would knock away

the edges and peer inside at the blue, blue ice.

Ed, it seemed, had other ideas about what crossing a crevassed slab of ice

was all about. You mean we’re not actually meant to find them, rather

avoid them?!! Ridiclious! After 20 minutes of leading, the fear of the unknown

had been replaced by excitement of the unknown. It was like a challenge in the

crystal maze: you never really knew which bit was going to give way beneath

you. But fun! Not scary. We never really fell far as the slots were either fairly

narrow (well, the width of my bum as I found out when two legs went in the same

slot) or heavily bridged by snow.

Wandering along the top of the ice cliff, staring at the open sea in the distance

with steam coming off it and dark clouds above, hearing the ice beneath us moan

and shift… all that practicing at last had a purpose and I was seeing this

stuff with my own eyes. It was a very special day.

It was still fairly early when we returned but the weather was closing in

so while Ed made tea in the tent, the three of us played in a thin crevasse

about 20m from the campsite. What an odd place to camp,- certainly not a place

for playing frisbee or kicking around the football we had brought! The photos

is of this slot, narrow and blue, two ropes so we could take photos of each

other and explore together. Poor old Simon ended up having to go down and up

three times. It was a safe slot to play in, we could almost climb out without

a rope by pushing with our back on one wall and feet on the other. But it was

gorgeous too, blue cobwebs of ice at the top, globules down the walls, and my

confidence soared. When you finally feel you have mastered the techniques, that’s

when you can truly enjoy the scenery!

Post-winter trip II: Creek Two and Beyond

As you know, we decided to head for the Hinge Zone but never made it. The weather

Wednesday morning was flat and misty so we continued our holiday at the coast

instead. More than anything, we just wanted to make sure we spent as much time

off base as possible.

The McDonald Ice Rumples are a point where the continental shelf underwater

meets the ice shelf and anchors the smooth ice that is slowly flowing out to

sea. The result is that the cliffs are broken up into creeks and the creeks,

with time, move along the coast, as new crevasses break open to form new creeks.

These are called the Gin Bottle Creeks and are numbered one to five, with Creek

One being the eldest and farthest from the Rumples. Beyond the Creeks lies Windy

Cove, a large protected area of sea ice that the Emperor penguins make the most

of as a breeding site year after year.

There are two drumlines that leave Halley: one leads to Creek Two and the

other to Windy Cove. Both have a caboose at the end. The drum-line marks a well-travelled

route that has been checked out for dangers such as crevasses. Once established,

we can travel there by skidoo or snow-cat unlinked. This is most important during

Relief when the ship arrives at one of the Gin Bottle Creeks and has to offload

its cargo on us.

So, back to the holiday. We drove to Creek Two, warmed up the caboose and

put up a tent. For four of us and two nights, this would be the most comfortable.

Craig was keen to stay in the caboose while I, no surprise, was keen on the

tent. I still love those tents, so familiar, it’s like I was never away!

The warm orange glow through ventile, the comforting hiss of the tilly lamp

and primus stove, the slight chill at night. Even setting up when it’s

cold. There is something immensely satisfying about dipping a burning match

into liquid meths and watching it fizzle out. The stingy eyes from fuel vapour

when you first start up, flasks, boxes, un rolling the p-bags….and big

down tent boots, I love our spaceboots! As close to being barefoot as you get

here, that wonderful sensual feeling of snow munching under your feet. As soon

as the fires are off, the tent cools down rapidly. It might be summer, but it’s

still Antarctica.

It was funny to think I hadn’t been back to Creek Two since relief last

year. That all seems so recent and vivid. This time, however, there were just

four of us, there was no mission, there was no chaos. The evening we arrived

we wandered down the creek just to check it out. It was so quiet and interesting

to see how the coastline had changed, overhangs drooped, crumpled ice blown

in and frozen. The dramatic front between perennial fast ice and areas that

might have been open water only a few weeks ago. Penguins have obviously been

here recently as the ice edge is covered in their shit… so we can only assume

that there was water here too. Good news for the ship coming in as it hopefully

shouldn’t have too much trouble reaching us. Perhaps in a few weeks some

seals will come here to pup.

There is a crevasse at the edge of the ice shelf that I’ve had my eye

on since February. Drove past it four times a day then and always wanted to

look inside. It was out of bounds, dangerous, not even to be thought about.

This time around, four of us chilling, we wondered up to it, played on the slope

at its approach practicing ice axe arrests and talked about returning with crampons

and ropes to explore inside. A completely different feeling: like this is where

we live now, this is our piece of ice shelf and ok to explore. This is our home.

The next day was delicious. We started off roped up, Ed and Simon, Craig and

me, wandering towards Creek One. A bit like some weddings I’ve been to

of friends, I wasn’t sure if this was a dress-rehearsal or the real thing.

The ropes seemed like overkill and therefore bureaucratic. Closer to the cliff

edge, however, feet started slipping, though we never fell far. Mainly ankle-biters

but it was nonetheless reassurring to be tied to someone who could break a fall

if necessary.

Creek One was like rolling hills of ice. Climbing up and over, learning new

ways to use the ice axe and crampons, the view obscured over the last ridge.

When we got there, it stretched out in all directions. The sea cliffs, the frozen

ocean. I love the coast, always have and always will. Open water was still miles

away from us but you could see the dark stripe and steam rising off it on the

horizon. Not so far that it would be unreachable. Summer is coming and we won’t

be frozen in, locked in by ice, for much longer. It’s an honour to watch

the landscape altering like this.

We abseiled down to the sea ice and went for a stroll. Ice, real ice underfoot

as opposed to snow. The hard crunching of crampons on ice felt solid and good.

There was also a sense of freedom and carefree-ness wandering around since we’re

not roped up on sea ice (for fear of it breaking up and us having to leg it!)

despite a few cracks. I was reminded of mudflats and marshland, silent and flat,

though we saw only one bird the whole time. Craig said salt-flats. The feeling

of walking on a sea bed, though this wasn’t, away from a long, long coastline

and towards a very low tide.

I was reminded of the first

time I saw Antarctica, the white cliffs, far on the horizon, and how happy

it made me. Now again I was looking back at those cliffs having lived on them

through all the seasons. They still hold a magical quality.

We walked further and further out, away from the protection of the cliffs,

beyond the flat ice and towards the chossed up stuff. This has obviously beeen

blown in from elsewhere and is now frozen in. After the next strong storm it

may well be gone again. Mesmerising never-ending coastline. But so relaxed,

it felt like a walk on the coast at home. It’s nice to not only notice

confidence increase but also the dissappearrance of trepidation. To focus once

again on place over activity.

Instead of pulling ourselves back up the cliff on a rope, we climbed out,

still tied for safety, with ice axes and crampons. Another new experience, the

initial learning curve with all this stuff is fast and satisfyingly steep. Back

onto the shelf and off home, via crevasses which, as ever, I was still expert

at discovering! We took the long way home via the coastline and Creek Two and

decided to explore that alluring crevasse. What a perfect way to end the day.

It was truly beautiful inside. Blue cavern, delicate icicles made of snow, crystals

adorning the walls. Snow bridges, hollows, speak as quietly as the blue is gentle

lest you upset the structure. Magical. And then we popped out the top! Home

via more slots and back in time for tea.

On Saturday morning we packed up leisurely and moved on to Windy Cove. As

an extra bonus, Ed let me drive as lead skidoo, linked up across the ice cliffs,

navigating by compass bearing and distance (244°, 14.4km) instead of GPS.

It is surprisingly hard to skidoo to a bearing when there is seemingly nothing

to head for. Clouds move, shadows move, in the end I took approximate sightings

on patches of sastrugi. When the caboose came into sight I wasn’t too

far off, and maybe half a km short… but that would make all the difference

in poor visibility. The driving itself though, well, what can I say? White and

undriven stretching out in front of me. Driving across Antarctica.

We visited the penguins in the afternoon and then again the following day.

As ever, they entertained us for hours. I cannot grasp how many there are, or

how lucky I am to see them like this. For us, it was like returning to see old

friends. Craig took a frisbee, we say hello to the greeting party and are dissappointed

when they aren’t waiting for us immediately as we arrive. They are apparrently

getting used to our visits too! There is now a steady stream of belly pushers

in the distance returning from, or to, the open water. The chicks are much bigger

but still fluffy and grey and their high peepsing call trills loudly. The huddle

is completely broken up and penguins are now everywhere, loosley bunched.

We only had one night at Windy before our holiday was over. Putting up a tent

would, I knew, take a lot of unecessary time and the boys were all happy to

stay in the caboose. My last night off base, I wasn’t. Instead, I dug

myself a ‘snow channel’ that night while the boys made tea and had

a radio sched, climbed inside my bivvy bag and experienced the warmest night

yet! All in all, a most wonderful way to end a most wonderful trip.

Posted in Uncategorized | 4 Comments

Windy Bay

I’m lying on the snow, emperor penguins all around. Once you get used to the

sight, the sound and then smell are probably the most noticeable things. The

constant cooing, deep throttle cooing: da da da daa di da da daa di da da daa

daa. A rattle and a coo, constantly starting and ending, sometimes in unison,

a chorus, sometimes a chant, always in surround sound. On top of this is the

sweet demanding chirrup of chicks, almost a trill. "Feed me." "Where

are you?"

The chicks are now getting quite big and plump. Some of them almost up to

the height of their parent’s shoulders if they stretch. These ones should make

it. There are little ones too, not necessarily abandoned, just later hatches.

These will make it as long as the ice stays for long enough and, of course,

that both parents keep returning with food. Then there are the tiny ones, occassionally

fostered by chickless adults but not fed. Finally, there are the dead chicks,

of all sizes, frozen into the ice.

As I stay still and write this, inquisitive adults approach. Never so close

that I could touch them easily but within reaching distance. The recent warmth

(~ -20C) makes an amazing difference since I can lie here and observe, writing

in thinnies [glove liners]. The downside however, is the stench. Fishy ammonia,

green-brown penguin poo streaks all across the ice. Not dissimilar from pigeons.

Birds is birds I guess.

One is now so close I see his reptilian feet, gnarled toes, long hard nails

for pulling out of the ice. He is standing very still, rounded back, dark black

stripes graffitied down his neck. He moves out of the way and a parent and chick

move in. The chick, fluffy grey, runs off like a toddler exploring and the parent

patiently follows through the crowd. I could stay here for hours but have been

told it’s time to go.

Da da da daa di di di daaa di di di daa daa.

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 40 Comments

Back at Halley, briefly (we hope!)

Dear Granny,

Thankyou so much for your last two letters that I haven’t yet responded to

– one of October 15/16th and the next, which I just received today, from

the 23rd. I hope you received the flowers in place of my usual letters.

I am writing this on a Wednesday having taken a last-minute detour back to

base this afternoon on our way to our second campsite of the holiday. Simon,

Craig, Ed and I left for the "MacDonald Ice Rumples" on Sunday afternoon

and had intended on staying away until next Sunday – hence I wasn’t sure

if you would get any letters from me this week. We had a fantastic time at the

Rumples – what an amazing place.

As you know, everything around Halley is flat, flat, flat except for a few

features you can see on the horizon. One of these is the Rumples and since they’re

the only thing you can see, I thought they would be huge. As it turns out, it’s

pretty impressive but just lots of lumpy bumpy upturned icebergs, not much higher

than the ice-shelf itself. And only an hour skidoo ride away! Apparently this

is a point where the continental shelf is higher (like a mountain underwater)

and grounds the moving ice shelf that we live on. The result is all sorts of

chaos and the nice smooth ice breaking up and forming creeks… it is, in fact,

the reason why we can access the base by ship every year.

Anyway, what you actually see is delightful, to my eyes anyway. Lots of ice,

massive massive ice cubes, open water (the sea, the sea!), icebergs in the distance,

grounded icebergs frozen in around us… very exciting, you can almost see the

ground moving around you (very slowly!) We even saw some footsteps that colleagues

made last week and this week they were seperated by a 3 foot gap where the ice

had moved (so we turned around at that point instead of jumping!) Here’s a picture:

Just these few days away have done wonders for my confidence as well –

confidence camping in the antarctic, putting up and taking down tents, abseiling,

walking in crevassed ice fields… when you know how, it doesn’t feel very scary

at all!

Anyway, last night we decided to make the most of our 10 days off and head

for the Hinge Zone today if the weather was good. That’s the place I went in

March but didn’t see anything because the weather was so bad. After about an

hour of driving, we stopped to check everyone was ok and discovered that (1)

there were some possibly nasty clouds looming and (2) one of our team had quite

bad frostnip on his neck. We were still fairly close to base so we decided to

come home, have a cup of tea and re-assess here after having warmed up. Hence

this opportunity to email!

The timing is actually pretty good as it’s a friend’s birthday today as well

so everyone is in a celebratory mood. I think we’ll spend the night here tonight

and then try to move on somewhere tomorrow. If the weather’s too bad to go to

the Hinge Zone (about 4-5 hours driving), then we might just go to the caboose

on the coast and visit the penguins again. There are apparently even more now

than at my last visit! So whatever we do, I know we’ll have a good time. It

would be nice to get to the Hinge though as this is probably my last chance

to see it. Never mind if not – I have after all seen lots here and had

an amazing year!

On other news, we are apparently due to have three or four flights in the next

month, which is a bit weird. One private plane will be flying between Rothera

and a Russian station and refuelling at Halley… and then apparently returning

a few days later and possibly then a third time, we don’t really know for sure

though. After that come the Germans on their way to Neumayer – I met them

the last two years and they’re always fun to have around for a few days. I don’t

think the intention is ever to stay long but you really can’t predict anything

with the weather here as you’ve probably gathered by now!

Then, finally, in December we might get visitors from our own institution along

with mail and fresh food (the Germans should hopefully bring some goodies but

again, we’ve been told not to count on it!) There will be a couple more flights

in December carrying new faces (one lot coming in via Cape Town, the South African

base and then the German base… lucky sods!) The real chaos of course starts

when the ship arrives around Christmas… I can’t belive that this will then

be the third time I’ll be documenting that time of year! It really must be time

to move on!

The sun is now almost permanently up, I’m not really sure because we’ve had

so much cloud cover lately. It’s certainly light outside the whole time.. makes

camping easy and allows for late starts after bumbly mornings, always useful!

The warmer weather also makes an incredible difference to the basic enjoyment

and ease of getting anything done. On my last camping trip I remember my face

getting so cold, goggles steaming up, fingers feeling sore after a few minutes

outside big mitts.. and just tying knots, lashing sledges, doing anything really

was hindered by either cold or darkness. Plus, of course, it’s much nicer sleeping

when you’re warm even if it’s light!

So, I’m coming around to the advantages of warmth and light though wouldn’t

have missed the winter for the world.. it’s still nice to know that Scorpio

is up there even if I can’t see him!

I’ve just re-read this and realised that much that I’ve written to you I’d

probably repeat to Felix to put on his webpage. If you don’t mind, I’ll send

this to him as well and he can maybe post it for a dfferent angle of my life

here (weekly letters to Granny are actually big events for me!).

I’ll write with more news as soon as I get back from wherever I’m going!

lots and lots of love

Rhian

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 2 Comments

Midnight light

When I first came here, I was mesmerised by continual light, the midnight sun, the beauty of the ice at all times of day and day. I couldn’t understand why both blinds and curtains were firmly closed in evenings at the bar: I didn’t come here to be reminded of evenings in Anybar, Anywhere. I wasn’t alone peeking behind the curtains, cooing at the light, wishing I could spend my every minute Out There but having run out of Things To Do. It is still cold in the summer, though not unpleasantly, and it is still flat here, so there are only so many ways you can spend your time outside. At the very least I wanted to be able to look at the icescape through the window. I didn’t want to watch yet another movie, drink yet another beer, talk more shite, all these things that I could do at home.

The tables have turned now, I want the light blocked out in the evenings, I enjoy watching films here that I know I would never see at home, I continually talk shite, and listen to it, on subjects that I might have walked away from hours earlier previously. What’s the hurry? Is there somewhere better to go?! Yes, I’m doing some things I might never have tried at home: painting, developing photos, playing guitar, making a frame, baking, reading a german book – even cross-stiching (!yes! you read it right). But I also watch almost every film that is shown, from Ben Hur to Flash Gordon, and every series from 24 to Band of Brothers. Watching television and going to films isn’t something I do much of at home. There was (arrogantly) always something ‘more worthwhile’ to do. Here, as I said, why not? An intrinsic part of spending a winter here is learning to spend time indoors, becoming comfortable with enforced inactivity, watching those films you’ve never seen before. I have become much more comfortable with myself, with doing nothing. The guilt associated with ‘time-wasting’ has gone. It’s lovely!

Anyway, we now have permanent light even if the sun isn’t permanently risen. It will be soon. In the evenings, you can lose all track of time, during work or play, since it’s continually bright. And when it’s bright, the body thinks it should be Doing Stuff. Watching a film or reading a book with the curtains open means it feels like the middle of the day even at 10pm. Evenings do not feel like evenings unless it’s dark. Plus, we enjoyed the dark, we liked the hibernation, the slowing down and unwinding. The sense of no hurry. Closing the blinds, drawing the curtains, it blocks the summer out. In a couple of months I’ll be one of those winterers who closes the curtains despite the beauty outside and though I don’t entirely understand why, I now understand why they did it to me.

I’m writing during yet another snowy white can’t-see-anything day but I’m happy as we’ve had a few days reprieve. For almost a week, we could see to the horizon, saw blue sky and contrast in the snow and enjoyed evening sun. Last Sunday I went on a trip to the penguins, and a couple of nights ago I learnt to kite-ski, flying around the base. On another evening, I went for a long walk with a friend around the perimeter at 1am. I had forgotten how beautiful, and how much fun, Halley is in the summer. Finally, finally, I have realised that the next stage will be good too.

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 12 Comments

Julie Taymor’s Magic Flute

Julie Taymor’s new production of Die Zauberflöte at the Met is

an unqualified triumph. My guess is that it will last at least as long as the

David Hockney production it replaces (14 years), and might, conceivably, even

outlast The Lion King on Broadway. Some reviewers seem to hope that

it will serve as the ideal jumping-off point for the millions of New Yorkers

who have never been to an opera before; my only worry is that it will spoil

such people for the much more boring productions they’re bound to go see if

they do catch the opera bug. Either way, this is certainly the best production

of Zauberflöte that I’ve ever seen, and although there have been

countless others over the past 200 years, I’m sure that it’s one of the best

ever, anywhere.

The wonder and the curse of Zauberflöte is that it’s an utterly

magical opera, makes very little sense, and simply can’t be "played straight".

If the design team got the loudest ovations at the premiere on Friday, that

was partly because of their magnificent achievement, but also because it makes

no sense to criticise them from departing from the "normal" way of

doing things. With this opera, more than any other, you can’t just hire Franco

Zeffirelli to put on a lavish and utterly unimaginative production: it requires

colour, imagination, and inventiveness.

In the past, the Met has tackled this problem by hiring visually stunning artists,

like Hockney and Marc Chagall, to design striking sets for the opera. In choosing

Julie Taymor to direct it, however, they’ve tacked a little: she’s credited

for costume design, puppet design and overall production, but it’s her colleague

George Tsypin who gets credit for the sets. The result is a much less static

opera than Zauberflöte normally is: there’s nearly always movement

on stage, something to surprise and delight the audience even after their initial

awe at the staging has worn off. The moments which stick in the visual memory

are not the bits when the curtain rises, so much as individual scenes: dancing

bears, or Papageno’s puppet-feast, or the grand entrance, on a revolve, of the

Queen of the Night.

Moreover, for all its unprecedented theatrical innovation, Taymor’s production

is actually very conservative when it comes to what really matters – the

music. The overture is played from beginning to end with the curtain down and

nothing happening on stage at all, and when a cast member is singing, he or

she is always standing up, facing the audience, with nothing interfering with

our ability to enjoy their work. There are a few scrims in this production (regular

readers of this blog might recall that scrims are something of a pet peeve of

mine), but they’re used rarely, and never in between a singer and the

audience. No one is asked to sing while lying down, or sitting down, or hanging

upside-down from a trapeze, or even to navigate a precarious rake. The whole

production fits neatly inside the proscenium: Taymor is confident enough of

her theatrical abilities that she doesn’t see any need to break the rules for

effect.

I have to say, then, that I’m extremely puzzled at the extremely curmudgeonly

review

that Tony Tommasini gave the production in the New York Times."Ms. Taymor’s

production is so packed with stage tricks, so peopled with puppets, kite-flyers,

dancers and extras of sundry description," he says, "that the exceptionally

fine musical performance given by the conductor James Levine and a strong cast

was overwhelmed". Tommasini goes on to give specific examples: armed guards

are "rendered irrelevant" by puppets; Tamino "looked distracted,

as if trying to remember and execute a predetermined pattern of stylized poses";

other puppets have the unfortunate effect of preventing us from "pondering

Papageno’s romantic dilemma".

I’m sure that if Die Zauberflöte is presented in concert performance,

that might help the audience concentrate a bit more on the music. But the whole

point of opera as an artform is that it is the confluence of music and theatre;

Taymor’s Zauberflöte simply constitutes theater just as magical

as the music.

I really don’t understand Tommasini’s point at all: of all the operas in the

world, Zauberflöte is one of the least fragile. To put it mildly,

this particular opera isn’t exactly famous for its piercing psychological insights:

the libretto makes no sense at all, even by operatic standards, and the number

one reason to go see it is simply to listen to a large chunk of the most beautiful

music ever written. Now I didn’t go to the exact same performance that Tommasini

did (I went last night, to the second performance), but I vividly remember that

scene with the armed guards where he says they "might as well have been

performing from the orchestra pit". And I can distinctly remember what

I was thinking as I watched that scene: that the staging was hugely impressive,

that the music was gorgeous, and that – foremost – the singing was

some of the best in the opera.

In Zauberflöte of all operas, there’s really no need for the

singers to be the most important thing on the stage, visually speaking. Tommasini

does have a shadow of a point when he talks about the costumes: they weren’t

really up to the standard of the staging or the puppets, but that didn’t really

matter because the voices were so good. I’d say it was an excellent ensemble

cast: no one really stood out, but everybody sang their parts with accuracy

and feeling. There’s no doubt who the audience favourite was, though: the spirit-guide

boy trebles, who were perfectly in tune and in time with each other.

Julie Taymor, with this prodution, has finally taken the weight of the story

off the shoulders of the singers – and for that we should be grateful

rather than aggrieved. "It’s my job to make the libretto and the staging

magical," she seems to be telling her singers: "your job is to do

the same for the music". And, under the masterful direction of James Levine,

that’s exactly what they did.

I had the most wonderful night at the opera last night, thanks to a cast and

crew of hundreds. Of all the people who contributed to the evening’s success,

Taymor, though crucial, was only the third most important. Levine was number

two: he absolutely nailed the score, and reminded me that the Met’s

band is still one of the top five orchestras in the world. Number one, of course,

was, and is, and ever shall be Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Taymor did what she does best, without interfering with either Levine or Mozart,

and that is probably her greatest achievement of all. And with all due respect

to Tony Tommasini, anybody who thinks that Mozart’s score can’t stand up to

a couple of puppets is in dire need of an injection of general musical enthusiasm.

Then again, I fear that Tommasini might not have been alone. Yet again, I came

away sorely disappointed in the quality of the Met’s audience, which seemed

to be comprised last night mainly of a large contingent from the Upper West

Side Hospital for Acute Bronchial Disorders. Given that the average age seemed

to be somewhere north of 70, you’d think that they’d’ve worked out by now that

the overture is actually part of the opera, and that when the orchestra is playing

music, it might be a good idea to discontinue their conversations. But maybe

this is what happens when you bring Julie Taymor to the Met: you get people

who think that if they can talk and cough in The Lion King, they can

talk and cough in Zauberflöte. Idiots.

Posted in Culture | 6 Comments

Where does new music belong?

When I was 16, a concert changed my life. I’ve written

about it here before: it was the London Symphony, under Kent Nagano, playing

Olivier Messiaen’s Saint François d’Assise. Read my piece from

2002 if you want to know that story; my point here is to say that that one concert

was sufficient to get me hooked on new music in general.

In the two or three years following that evening, I actively sought out all

the new music I could find. Most of it was played at the Purcell Room in London,

one of the most acoustically perfect concert halls in the world, small (and

subsidised) enough that adventurous programming was welcomed with open arms.

It was there that I learned about all the big names of the post-war classical

music world: Boulez, Xenakis, Cage, Stockhausen, and more relatively unknown

British composers than you could shake a stick at. I basically got my classical

education by working backwards from these guys: occasionally a Webern piece,

say would come up, I’d get into him, and then at the next Webern concert I’d

find something even more mainstream, and so on.

Meanwhile, my mother, emboldened by my enthusiastic response to the Messiaen,

started educating me on her favourites, especially Bartók. Wonderfully,

Sir Georg Solti was still very much alive and active on the London scene, and

I went to many concerts he conducted of his beloved fellow Hungarian. To this

day, Solti remains the conductor I feel most fondly towards: I can still vividly

remember his kindly face, and the blood-quickening sounds he could get out of

the LSO once he really got his teeth into something like Mahler’s First. There

are many conductors I respect, but Solti had a knack of engendering something

closer to love – I daresay Leonard Bernstein did something similar in

New York.

Solti was one of those conductors who inspires enough devotion among his listeners

that they will follow him to pastures new. Simon Rattle is another: when he

turned people on to classical music, it wasn’t a narrow swathe of Brahms and

Beethoven, but a vast range of music from Handel and Monteverdi to Henze and

Messiaen, and beyond.

Rattle is one of those conductors – Michael Tilson Thomas, in San Francisco,

springs to mind as another – who makes successful attempts to place new

music at the heart of any concert season. Such people are rare, however, and

the example of Nicholas Kenyon, who always throws an enormous quantity of new

music into any Proms season, only really goes to show what is possible when

you’re supported by Auntie Beeb rather than octogenarian subscribers who start

getting nervous when they see Richard Strauss on the bill.

A couple of weeks ago, the Toronto Symphony caused a small stir in classical

music circles when they announced, in the

words of Greg Sandow, that "they’re going to banish new music from

their regular season, at least for this year, and stick it off by itself in

a few concerts next spring". (I can’t link to the original story, because

it’s behind a subscriber firewall, and there doesn’t seem to be any kind of

press release on the official Toronto Symphony website.) Sandow, along with

Alex Ross,

refused to condemn this action: if new music isn’t working in what Ross calls

a "ghastly ritual, generating reams of five- and twenty-minute pieces that

serve no vital function", then why not try an alternative method of delivering

it?

While I understand where Sandow and Ross are coming from, I fear the Toronto

experiment is doomed to failure. Full-scale symphony orchestras are expensive

animals, and new-music concerts aimed at under-30 members coaxed with $10 tickets

are guaranteed to lose large amounts of money. The minute that the orchestra

runs into budget difficulties (and there isn’t an orchestra in the world which

doesn’t run into budget difficulties), the new-music concerts will be the first

to go. New music simply doesn’t work as a bolted-on afterthought: it has to

be an integral part of what an orchestra does, or it is nothing.

One way of doing this, of course, is for an orchestra to specialise in new

music. The experience of the Brooklyn Philharmonic is disheartening, but a look

across the pond at the London Sinfonietta shows that it is possible to run a

successful, high-profile orchestra with consistently interesting and daring

programming.

In the US, the prime example, although of course it is not an orchestra and

therefore doesn’t have nearly the same kind of struggles with overhead costs,

is the Kronos Quartet. I went to see them perform Terry Riley’s Sun Rings

at BAM last night, and it was quite a sight to behold, even before the performance

started. The large opera house was completely sold out, even though there were

three separate performances featuring nothing but this single piece by a composer

who’s mainly known for one work he wrote in 1964.

Clearly, there’s a huge audience for new music if it’s done right. And the

main lesson of last night’s concert, for me, was that the audience really has

to be able to trust the performers. A couple of posts ago, I worried

about going to see a new opera at Glyndebourne: evidently, I don’t completely

trust the house to put on a great show. And the Death of Klinghoffer

fiasco last December was

proof enough for anybody that the Brooklyn Philharmonic and BAM are not the

kind of brand names which can be trusted with new music.

The Kronos Quartet, however, with more than 30 years of history, has managed

to create a brand name which people know they can trust. The score for Sun

Rings did not require particularly virtuoso playing: probably there are

a dozen other quartets who could have sat in those chairs and done an equally

good job. But the production here was immaculate: no costs were cut, the very

best designers and singers were hired, and everybody worked with each other

to create a whole which was greater than the sum of its parts – quite

the opposite of the regrettable Klinghoffer situation.

I’m not going to say much about Sun Rings itself: while I greatly

enjoyed the concert, and am extremely glad I went, I have serious misgivings

about the final movement, with visuals straight out of the annual report of

a major multinational polluter and an annoying woman’s voice intoning something

about One Earth One People One Love. Other than that, the piece is excellent,

and the video footage of the surface of the sun, especially, was glorious.

My broader point is that the audience clearly had a great experience last night,

and, if given the choice, most of them will come back for more. There are many

wonderful works written for full orchestra rather than for string quartet which

could get a similar reaction. What New York lacks – what, I daresay, America

lacks – is an institution which has successfully invested itself in performing

those pieces. The problem, as I see it, with the Toronto approach is that if

it doesn’t work, little if any harm is done to the orchestra as a whole. New

music is hard work, and if the costs of failure are low or even negative, then

no one’s going to expend much effort in making sure it works. The Kronos Quartet

managed to sell out BAM for three successive nights because their audience knows

that they care about new music, and have a history of getting it right. There

are precious few other US organisations about whom the same can be said.

Posted in Culture | 3 Comments

Cheney’s $80 billion: The facts

Normally, this is a place for me to rant about stuff which I might care about,

but can’t really claim to be any kind of an expert on. I’m breaking with tradition

here, however, to pick on Dick Cheney for one thing he said in tonight’s vice-presidential

debate. This from the transcript:

EDWARDS: You know, we’ve taken 90 percent of the coalition causalities. American

taxpayers have borne 90 percent of the costs of the effort in Iraq.

And we see the result of there not being a coalition: The first Gulf war cost

America $5 billion. We’re at $200 billion and counting.

IFILL: Mr. Vice President, you have 90 seconds to respond.

CHENEY: Well, Gwen, the 90 percent figure is just dead wrong. When you include

the Iraqi security forces that have suffered casualties, as well as the allies,

they‘ve taken almost 50 percent of the casualties in operations in Iraq,

which leaves the U.S. with 50 percent, not 90 percent.

With respect to the cost, it wasn’t $200 billion. You probably weren’t there

to vote for that. But $120 billion is, in fact, what has been allocated to

Iraq. The rest of it’s for Afghanistan and the global war on terror.

The allies have stepped forward and agreed to reduce and forgive Iraqi debt

to the tune of nearly $80 billion by one estimate. That, plus $14 billion

they promised in terms of direct aid, puts the overall allied contribution

financially at about $95 billion, not to the $120 billion we’ve got, but,

you know, better than 40 percent. So your facts are just wrong, Senator.

Now it just so happens that the one thing I really do know about is Iraq’s

sovereign debt: I just wrote a 6,600-word cover story on the subject for the

September issue of Euromoney. But before I get to the debt, let’s just see what

Cheney is doing here. When he says, for instance, that "The 90 percent

figure is just dead wrong", he’s simply lying. Quite clearly, according

to the transcript, Edwards talked about "the coalition casualties".

Only by including the Iraqi casualties can Cheney bring that number down –

and, frankly, I’m surprised he wants to go there, given the enormous number

of Iraqi civilian casualties that the US has caused.

Cheney then points out, correctly, that the cost of the war in Iraq so far

is $120 billion, not $200 billion. On the other hand, the total projected

cost of the war in Iraq has actually reached $200 billion. You pays yer billions

and you takes yer choice, I suppose. Cheney then decides to compare the $120

billion figure with $95 billion that he says "the allies" are giving

as their "overall contribution". And that’s where he starts moving

into the realm of complete and utter fantasy.

Cheney’s $14 billion figure I have no idea about: it’s not footnoted on the

official Bush-Cheney debate

facts page, and I haven’t been able to Google it. Maybe it’s true, maybe

it isn’t. But the $80 billion figure is just crazy. Here are the facts.

Firstly, "the allies", as that term is generally understood, can’t

possibly reduce Iraq’s debt by "nearly $80 billion", because they

don’t even have that much in Iraqi debt. The US is owed about $4.4

billion, the UK is owed less than $2 billion, and all of eastern Europe combined

is owed maybe $6 billion – mostly to countries like Bulgaria, who weren’t

part of the coalition in the first place.

Secondly, no one’s "stepped forward and agreed" anything. Some of

Iraq’s major creditors, including France and Russia, have paid lip service to

the principle of reducing Iraq’s debt, promising a "substantial reduction"

or suchlike when Iraq goes to the Paris Club of bilateral creditors later this

year. In the world of debt restructuring, a "substantial reduction"

can mean anything from 35% to 95%. Indeed, if there was any kind of agreement,

Cheney wouldn’t need to be citing estimates: he could just cite the agreement.

But there is none.

Thirdly, there are certainly people out there who think that Iraq’s debt will

be reduced by $80 billion. But that’s all in the future: it hasn’t happened

yet. Cheney’s verb tense ("have agreed") is unambiguous: he’s saying

this has already happened. It hasn’t. The talks haven’t even started yet. Even

if a Paris Club agreement is concluded by the end of this year (a very big if),

the Paris Club in total accounts for less than $42 billion of Iraq’s foreign

debt. And it doesn’t take a former CEO to know that you can’t reduce $42 billion

of debt by $80 billion.

More broadly, Cheney is comparing apples with oranges. Consider the hypothetical

case of a French contractor who built a hospital in Iraq in the 1980s. Iraq

was tardy on its payments, and eventually, after the invasion of Kuwait, stopped

them entirely. Of the $20 million total cost, let’s say only $10 million was

paid. Because the contract was supported by French export credit guarantees,

the French government took on the debt, paying the contractor itself. Today,

with past-due interest, the $10 million that Iraq owed has grown to $20 million.

If France agrees to write off 75% of that debt, then, by Cheney’s calculus,

it’s contributing $15 million towards Iraq, $15 million which is entirely comparable (if you’re Cheney)

to $15 million in real US taxpayer dollars which is being spent by the US government

on troops and munitions and reconstruction and the like.

Remember that the $15 million which France may or may not write off is basically

little more than an accounting entry. It costs the French taxpayer nothing:

it’s simply a recognition of the fact, which has been obvious for years, that

Iraq is never going to pay its creditors all that they are owed.

Look at it another way: let’s say that back in 1984, when interest rates were

high, I lent my uncle Ted $100, at 10% interest, for a period of time we both

thought wouldn’t be much more than a year. He then disappeared entirely: maybe

he joined an ashram in India, or something. Whatever: he was impossible to contact,

and I mentally gave up hope of ever getting my money back. But then, out of

the blue, he turns up one day, saying that he’s trying to rectify everything

he’s ever done in his life, and offering me a crisp $100 bill. By Cheney’s calculation,

accepting that bill in payment of his debts is functionally equivalent to giving

him $573 in cash.

To be sure, the $100 loan has compounded so much over the past 20 years that

Ted would need that much extra to pay me past-due interest. But there’s no doubt

that there’s a huge difference between me accepting that $100 bill in payment

of his debts, and my cousin Fred lending Ted $500 in brand-new cash. But if

my cousin Fred was related to Cheney, he could say something like "well,

I might have given Ted $500, but Felix has given him even more: Felix has given

him $573". In reality, of course, I never gave Ted anything of the sort,

and in fact I never even lent him that much to start with.

I can tell you where Cheney’s $80 billion figure comes from. Iraq’s total debts

come to about $120 billion, the vast majority of which are bilateral. The general

consensus among people who know about such things is that by the time everything

is worked out, Iraq will receive at least two-thirds forgiveness of its debts

– and two thirds of $120 billion is $80 billion.

But bear in mind, here, that somewhere between $55 billion and $70 billion

of that $120 billion headline figure is owed to other Arab states, who helped

to finance Iraq during the Iran-Iraq war. The degree to which that money was

grants, rather than loans, has never really been formalised: these things are

usually agreed verbally between ministers, and reliable records can be impossible

to find. Never mind that these Gulf states certainly don’t seem to count as

"allies" for the purposes of Cheney’s rhetoric: if they simply decide

that the money they gave Iraq in the 1980s was, well, money they gave Iraq in

the 1980s, and money they don’t expect to be repaid, then suddenly "the

overall allied contribution" has been bumped up by something north of $50

billion.

In other words, if the Kerry campaign tells you that the US is bearing 90%

of the costs in Iraq, and the Bush campaign counters with anything along the

lines of what Cheney said today, you can rest assured that the Kerry campaign

is right and the Bush campaign is wrong. I’m sure the same is true on many other

issues as well, but this is the one I really know about. Any questions about

Iraq’s sovereign debt – just ask. I’m your man.

Posted in Finance | 2 Comments

Dan Flavin

One of the biggest surprises, for myself along with many people, of Dia:Beacon

was the fact that Dan Flavin’s work looks so marvelous in natural light. So

when I heard that the head of Dia, Michael Govan, had curated the new Flavin

retrospective at

the National Gallery of Art in Washington, I was looking forward to more surprises

and new ways of looking at Flavin.

I must say now that it’s a very good retrospective, and if you’re anywhere

near Washington you should check it out. But it’s not a great show, and in fact

it might well look much better when it moves on to Fort Worth and Chicago next

year.

The show starts off well, at least from the outside of the gallery. The National

Gallery of Art does not go in for what James Traub calls

"unthinkably garish and self-aggrandizing" banners on the outside

of its pristine IM Pei building, but if you approach from the other side of

Constitution Avenue, it’s easy to see that something interesting is going on

inside. The big long North-facing window which helps illuminate the gallery’s

atrium has been filled with a beautiful green glow, thanks to the installation

of Untitled (To You, Heiner, With Admiration and Affection) just inside

it. That’s it at the top of this post.

But look at the photograph, which comes from the estate of the artist, and

anybody who’s actually visited the show will notice a couple of things. Firstly,

the photo is taken at dusk, when the interplay with natural light is minimised.

During the height of the day, it becomes obvious that the Flavin has been placed

in the darkest place in the whole atrium, as though the curators didn’t have

faith that it could actually stand up to untrammeled daylight. There’s a big

roof above it, extending both inside and outside the window, so the piece is

permanently in shadow. While it looks great from the outside, it’s less impressive

from the inside, shunted off to the edge of the atrium where it has much less

ability to really dominate the space.

Flavin was a master at dominating light-infused spaces – think of his

twelve-sided tower of pink fluorescent lights rising all the way from the floor

to the very top of the Guggenheim spiral in New York. Obviously, he couldn’t

install something similarly site-specific here: he’s been dead since 1996. But

Dia has shown how even his early works can be spectacular in a large space,

and the rather bland and empty atrium of the National Gallery was crying out

for something much more in-your-face. In the exhibition proper, for instance,

is an enormous installation of red, white and blue lamps which is somewhat uncomfortably

installed in an irregularly-shaped space with a spotlight weirdly shining down

from the ceiling. Could that, perhaps, have been moved to the museum lobby?

The other thing worth noticing about the photograph above is the lamps’ reflection

in the polished museum floor. If you leaf through the catalogue, you’ll find

that’s true of every single piece: a glowing tube, with light reflecting off

the wall, the ceiling, if visible, and always the floor. It’s part of the work:

it’s not only all around you, in the way that an Irwin might be, or a Serra;

it’s also below you, in the manner of an Andre – sometimes you

feel as though you’re floating in light, and frequently over the course of walking

through the exhibition I was reminded of the gallery installations of James

Turrell.

But the lobby installation is the odd work out in the National Gallery’s show:

every other work is exhibited on a dark grey carpet. It’s hard to think of a

floor surface more ill suited to Dan Flavin, and in fact the show is at its

theatrical best when you climb the spiral staircase to the second floor and

find yourself entering, head-first, the pure bright light field emitted by Untitled

(to Henri Matisse) – four lamps, of pink, yellow, blue and green,

which together combine to produce a gloriously rich white.

What’s great about this show is the ability to see a lot of Flavin’s work in

one place, over his entire career. The installation in Beacon is beautiful,

but limited; here, you can get a much better idea of what a first-rate colourist

Flavin was. The range of things he could achieve with stock lamps is astonishing:

by facing some towards the viewer and some back towards the wall, he could fill

different parts of the room, especially if the piece was in a corner, with an

astonishing array of colours and textures.

And at the end of the exhibition is a room of Flavin’s works on paper, which

I had never seen before, many of which are very beautiful indeed. It’s ironic,

though: the studies for light works are gorgeous, while the pieces which are

meant to be more self-contained are of little more than art-historical interest.

Still, the room of drawings is a very weak way to end an exhibition with such

hard-hitting pieces. Most people, I wager, will go back to the corridor works,

or some of the other large-scale virtuoso installations, for their final impression

of Flavin. I retraced my steps, doing the whole show backwards, and noticed

that the few works marked "exhibition copy" seemed brighter and cleaner

– and not necessarily in a good way – than the other pieces in the

show. Even after skimming through the exhibition catalogue, I’m none the wiser:

is this because flourescent lamps have changed since Flavin started using them,

or is it because older lamps fade over time? In other words, which is closer

to the art as Flavin created it: the old work or the new? Can anybody help me

out on this?

Posted in Culture | 10 Comments

Classical music criticism

One of the best things about being me is that I have a very cool grandmother

who takes me to Glyndebourne every

summer. (She herself hasn’t missed a season since she first went at some point

in the 1930s, I believe.) We have something of an annual ritual: every Christmas

the booking form comes out, and together we work out which operas we want to

go to, and when.

Recently, Glyndebourne’s been a little bit boring: for the house which was

always at the forefront of pushing new music in the age of Britten, we reached

the point in 2003 where the composer list ran to Wagner, Mozart, Johann Strauss,

Puccini, Mozart (again), and Handel. Not a hint of a Britten or Janacek, and

certainly nothing new, unless you count Peter Sellars turning Idomeneo

into a piece of anti-war agitprop.

This year, we’re a bit more fortunate, with Rossini, Mozart, Smetana, Handel,

Verdi, and the British composer Jonathan Dove. Dove’s Flight is coming

back to Glyndebourne, and if the reviews

posted on his publisher’s site are any indication, it could well be a great

opera to go and see. That said, I’d love to hear from anyone who has actually

seen this piece: is it really as fun and accessible as it seems? My granny,

I’m sure, is going to be a little bit wary of going to any new opera,

having been dragged along to one too many Stockhausen performances by her husband

in the 70s and 80s. If she likes Britten but not Berg, will she be cool with

Dove?

I feel I have to ask this because there seems to be something of a conspiracy

in music-reviewing circles, where very difficult works are rarely outed as such

in print. I’m not just talking about new music, either: I remember reading a

whole stack of unanimously rave reviews for some rare Monteverdi opera at Covent

Garden once, and actually going to see it as a result. Boy was that

a mistake. It seems to me that reviewers get so excited at the fact that an

opera house is doing something out of the mainstream that they censor themselves

a little, refusing to give their readers the crucial information about why

it’s out of the mainstream. The Monteverdi in London was, I’m sure, one of the

best Monteverdi productions the world has seen in decades, but the fact remains

that the majority of music lovers will get nothing out of it except for extreme

boredom. A responsible reviewer, I think, should bother to mention that between

praising the artistry of the singers and the authenticity of the orchestra.

Or take the new production of Richard Strauss’s Daphne at New York

City Opera: the general critical reaction has been that the production might

be seriously flawed, and the singers a little bit weak, and the orchestra maybe

not quite up to the demands of late Strauss, but hell, this is a super-rare

opportunity to see this work on stage, so we’re going to praise it as highly

as we can. The New Yorker’s Alex Ross is an exception. "The Daphne left

me feeling totally dispirited — it was miles away from what I’d hoped

for," he writes

on his blog, saying that therefore he wasn’t going to review it at all. "I

hope to write up City Opera on a happier day," he concludes.

I’m a little bit suspicious of the implied "if you can’t say something

nice, don’t say anything at all" philosophy behind this, but I feel that

it probably follows from the necessarily evangelical nature of most music critics.

If you spend your life listening to the sort of music which most people haven’t

heard of and most of the rest have no interest in, you’re generally going to

start feeling that part of your job is to help guide people to new music, to

help enthuse them about the kind of stuff they might otherwise never encounter.

Negative reviews won’t do that, while "a quick round-up of recent CDs"

– the thing which Ross wrote instead – just might.

The problem is that even fans of new music, like myself, will admit that most

of it isn’t very good. (I’m sure that most music of any era isn’t very good,

either, but the advantage of old music is that time has managed to do a reasonably

good job of winnowing out the dreadful stuff which no one would ever dream of

performing. If you commission a new piece, on the other hand, you’re obligated

to perform it, no matter how bad it is.) For every amazing performance

of an amazing piece, there are half a dozen underrehearsed cacophonies which

achieve little beyond making the audience feel proud of themselves just for

making it all the way through to the end. But critics never say that, so it’s

very hard to tell what the really good stuff is.

Personally, I like taking risks, and if I go to a new opera and don’t like

it, no real harm is done. When it comes to my grandmother, however, I’m a lot

more risk-averse. I want to know this thing is good and that she’s

going to like it, and failing that I’ll probably fall back on the safety of

Otello.

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Equinox

I am becoming a little bored of being electrocuted every time I open the fridge

door. Or, for that matter, touch a handrail before climbing steps into a building.

And then I get a shock, once indoors, when I hang my overalls on their metal

peg in the boot room. The same happens when you pass someone a cup of tea and

your fingers touch.

You know those blue spongey kitchen cloths that come flatpacked super brittle

but go soft when you get them wet and then stay soft forever? Well here, they’re

always super brittle. Even when you use them every day. Pints of water are a

must last thing at night and first thing in the morning, not just when you’ve

been drinking. Moisturiser and anti-dandruff shampoo aren’t just for girls.

This is the driest place on Earth.

I’ve just come off a week of nights. Blissfully task-free other than the basic

duties of bread, met obs and a little cleaning. My first night-shift in April

was a big deal, I remember, would the bread be acceptable to the boys, whom

do I wake if an alarm goes off, what is the fire drill procedure, how many octres

of stratus cloud are there, is the mirror in the bathroom spotless? This time

round, I remarked only on how easy and wonderful it was. No agenda, nothing

to do but whatever I wanted to do in that moment. (That’s something else I’ve

learnt here,- to lose my fear of boredom. To overcome that guilt feeling associated

with watching a film, reading a book, daydreaming a day away.)

Making bread has become almost normal for us and if it’s rubbish bread, well,

tough… or I’ll make another batch. Met obs are a nice opportunity to go outside

at 3am and 6am. My first few nights were beautifully clear, starry and dark.

We even had a couple of auroras. By 6am, incredible layered clouds, pink, red,

the morning sunrise colours emerging in stripes. Halley Haze. It’s great when

all the buildings look like they’re floating. At the end of the week a storm

was approaching, wind speed soared, snow blew past my face, it was dark and

wild. That could well have been my last week of darkness here; soon it will

be light most of the time, or at least most of my waking hours.

The storm is here now. Forty knots for the past few days but dropping soon

I hope. I do enjoy the wild weather but it is a hindrance to everyone’s work

and you start feeling a bit cooped up after a while. Plus, three people have

been stuck on base for the last week when they were hoping to be on a post-winter

trip. On Sunday we decided to go ouside despite the weather. A couple of us

helped dig melt-tank just for the hell of it, it gets you outside and moving

after all, and then we tried putting a pup tent up in a gale. These are the

emergency tents used if you’re caught out in the field – so why not try

them in more realistic conditions? I’ll give it to BAS: they are ridiculously

simple to erect, even in a storm. After that we rode Craig’s bike around under

the platform for a while. As you do. Not quite the weather for golf.

One of the funniest things I heard this week is that we’re running out of

tea bags. No, really, this is serious. Not just a serious fact, but a serious

problem. I actually don’t know what will happen if it’s true. We have apparently

got through over 13,000 tea bags and about 2 tins of instant coffee. Horlicks,

Ovaltine and herbal tea are drunk, but it’s not the same, is it? This is a very

British base after all. During the winter months here, outdoor work is tiring

purely due to the cold. After even 20 minutes outside, you have earned a cup

of tea. And anyone else who’s around will probably join you. Personally, I think

if anything is going to turn us into crisis mode, this is it. I’ll keep you

posted.

It’s very bitty. I am dredging my brains to try and think of something new

to say, something you haven’t heard before. A friend wrote to me recently and

said she felt like she knew what my life was like thanks to these blurbs. In

contrast, I couldn’t really imagine hers at all. That’s odd, isn’t it? I could

take it as a compliment about my writing but suspect it has more to do with

the fact that life down here is incredibly simple and repetitive, there’s only

so much to say and then I have to start saying it all over again. In contrast,

I can never know everything about anyone elses life in the ‘normal’ world. We

don’t even know that of our loved ones, nearest and dearest who we live with

at home or work with every day. We share only a part of anyone’s life. Home,

work, school, office, hobbies, sport, recreation, films, families, friends from

the past, colleagues, aquaintances, daily commute, thoughts, dreams, aspirations,

the person you buy your milk from in the morning. Everything that makes up your

day at home involves so many other people. Your life is a composite of so many

lives. Even if I were to spend a month living with my friend, I’ll only ever

know the part of her life that she shares with me, and only ever know the person

she is when I am around. In contrast, I share most of my thoughts here with

the same people, watch the same films, discuss the same ideas, work with them,

live with them, drink with them, experience the same storm and the same halo

with them. I see them as they are with me, but also who they are with others

as well. We see different things of course and have vastly different opinions

and backgrounds, but we’re getting to know these as well.

Thankfully, we still surprise each other and Halley still surprises me but

my point is, it’s simple. For me, it’s a happy place, I am very contented here.

There are others I know however who really just want to go home. But still I

think it’s odd that you can know so much about my dailyness and I know nothing

at all about yours. It doesn’t matter, I’ll be back in yours before I know it

and can re-experience it all over again. For now, let me indulge in this feeling

of space and ease of living. It can’t last forever but it’s pretty goood for

right now.

Posted in Rhian in Antarctica | 16 Comments

Public art

A few months ago, a series of blue boxes appeared in the World Financial Center

marina. If you walked past them, you’d realise they were making funny noises.

It turns out that they were a site-specific art

work by Bruce Odland and Sam Auinger called Blue Moon. You can read about

it here

(be prepared for artspeak about "the inherent temporal cycles of the broader

bio-sphere"), or see pictures here:

the installation clearly wasn’t designed to be visually impressive.

I’m a big fan of Creative Time, the public art non-profit which organised Blue

Moon, but this was everything that public art should not be. Most people encountering

it wouldn’t notice it at all; those who did generally had no idea what it was.

The best-case scenario, really, was that someone might suspect that it was "meant

to be art". In order to appreciate it, you needed to arrive armed with

the foreknowledge that it was there, and of its deeper structure, involving

strategically-placed "tuning tubes", tide-activated switches, and

clever real-time harmonic sound mixing. In a gallery context, people might be

expected to find out about this kind of thing; in a public space, you simply

can’t make such assumptions. This was not public art: it was private art –

art for the cognoscenti – in a public space.

Creative Time is by no means alone in making this kind of mistake. I admire

the work of public art organisation Minetta

Brook, for instance, but when they take over a storefront in Beacon, New

York, and convert it into a video installation by Matthew Buckingham, there’s

very little public about the art. The video is a long, slow, black-and-white

silent film of the Hudson River: beautiful, to be sure, but also boring in the

way that most video art installations are boring. The storefront might be open

to the public, but there’s nothing really to invite Beacon residents in, and

certainly nothing to engross or delight them once they’ve entered. This, again,

is art by an established member of the art world, designed to be viewed and

appreciated by other such sophisticates.

The people who sponsor public art are normally – necessarily, even –

art-world people. They have artists they admire, and they like to see what those

artists can do in a public, as opposed to a gallery, setting. Few if any artists

will substantially change the kind of work they create when they are given a

public-art commission, so there’s definitely an art involved in picking artists

who will speak to the general public.

Many very good artists, it turns out, are also very accessible. Jeff Koons,

with his hugely-loved Puppy, springs immediately to mind, as does the

world-famous team of Christo and Jeanne-Claude, who are coming

to New York in February. Other artists might seem more forbidding at first

glance but are embraced by the public all the same: I’m thinking here of Rachel

Whiteread’s House,

or Jonathan Borofsky’s Man

Walking to the Sky, which was so well received by the citizens of Kassel

when it was exhibited there at Documenta in 1990 that it was bought by the city

permanently.

Borofsky, of course, took his Kassel man and made first a female

version, in Strasbourg, and now a group

version, which has been

installed at Rockefeller Center. Rockefeller Center has a great track record

when it comes to public art: the Koons puppy looked wonderful in the space where

the Christmas Tree goes every year, and subsequently there have been excellent

installations by Louise Bourgeois, Nam June Paik and Takashi

Murakami.

While some of these artists might be considered more serious than others, all

of them are genuine art-world heavyweights who have managed to create large

crowd-pleasing installations in midtown Manhattan. A bit further uptown, however,

the

story is very different. There, the Marlborough Gallery has joined forces

with the Broadway Mall Association and the Parks Department to create something

called "Tom Otterness on Broadway".

Here, the problem is not that an institution like Creative Time is foisting

highbrow art on people incapable of understanding it: quite the opposite. Tom

Otterness, his past association with the likes of Kiki Smith and Jenny Holzer

notwithstanding, is a truly vulgar mass-market artist who appeals to the type

of people who don’t know much about art, but know what they like. His pieces

are excruciatingly literal-minded: one, called "Marriage of Real Estate

and Money", shows some money getting married to a house. Ha! Otterness

talked to the New York Times:

I don’t underestimate rich people’s sense of humor either. You’d be surprised

at the number of real-estate guys who have collected `The Marriage of Real

Estate and Money.’

No, Tom, I wouldn’t. Real-estate guys are precisely the sort of people

I’d expect to buy (not "collect") this piece – and not necessarily

because they’ve got a particularly well-developed sense of humour, either. The

ultimate real-estate guy, of course, is Donald Trump, and he has just the kind

of taste that the Marlborough Gallery is looking for in Otterness collectors.

Here’s James Traub, profiling

The Donald last weekend:

Maybe it’s an example of what Marxists call ”false consciousness,” but

Trump really is a populist plutocrat — and not because he’s philanthropic

or even liberal-minded. It’s the opposite: people seem to like him because

he loves his money and spends it just the way they would if they had it —

as if he had just won a reality show himself in which the prize is absolutely

everything.

What makes Trump Trump is not just what he has but what he doesn’t care about

having: status. Trump is not a patron of the arts; he does not sit on the

boards of museums or universities or think tanks. His self-love simply will

not brook the idea of a superior station to which you gain access by virtue

of taste or values or behavior or whatever it is you might be supposed not

already to have. Trump does not even recognize that some people look down

on him; he assumes they must be looking up.

"Populist" is the operative word here, and in fact it comes up again

in the Otterness piece:

Mr. Otterness, 52, is well suited to the diversity and commercial energy

of Broadway. He is both popular and populist — an artist whose sculptures

are intended to work everywhere and be understood by almost everyone.

Now that we are living in the era of the death

of the middlebrow, it’s hard for me to consider populism quite as benignly

as that. Anybody genuinely populist cannot be admirable: Trump is admired by

the ignorant public, not by fellow businessmen, and Otterness has created a

huge business churning out sculptures of cute bears which has no more basis

in the art world than does Thomas Kinkade. The Broadway Mall Association, here,

is essentially throwing its hands in the air and saying that the only way it

will be able to find something popular is by sacrificing all quality-related

criteria. Given that Rockefeller Center has provided many obvious counterexamples,

it’s hard to see why Otterness was chosen, beyond the obvious fact that his

gallery is funding the entire installation.

I’m hopeful, however, that the city’s other public-art installations, like

Mark di Suvero in Madison Square Park and Roy Lichtenstein in City Hall Park

– not to mention Christo in Central Park – will show that good

public art is not some kind of oxymoron. Even today, as Nicholas Serota will

attest, you don’t need to be populist to be popular.

Posted in Culture | 6 Comments

Blithe Young Tories

One of the funniest scenes in the new Stephen Fry movie, Bright

Young Things, happens when one of the eponymous socialites, played by the

fabulously-named Fenella Woolgar, fails to recognise the Prime Minister when

he joins her for breakfast. It’s a cheap joke, but it’s effective: it manages

to perfectly encapsulate the bubble of privilege surrounding posh youngsters

in England between the wars.

The really shocking thing about the film (which is only new to Americans: it

came out ages ago in Europe) is not how much England has changed since the 30s,

but how little. The vile bodies of the book

upon which the film is based are still out in force; the public still salivates

over the excesses of the rich and famous, and the hypocrisy of the landed and

monied classes is as egregious as it ever was. In England, as in America, we

are living in what Paul Krugman calls a "new gilded age", and whatever

lessons were learned during the war have evidently, by this point, been forgotten.

What’s more, the clubby world of the Eton-and-Oxford privileged classes is

very much alive and well. And as both the film and the book show, the superficially

attractive life of its denizens is often very unhappy indeed in reality. The

fact that rich people can be unhappy is, of course, nothing new, and certainly

not unique to England. But the English public school system is, I think, particularly

good at ratcheting up the misery for those who are for whatever reason not so

good at playing the game.

This fact was hammered home for me recently, when I spent some time with a

real world Eton-and-Oxford type: let’s call him Carlton Fitzsimmons. He grew

up, of course, in a wealthy family, with only the briefest exposure to those

less well-off than he. He certainly sounds to anybody hearing his voice for

the first time like an archetypal braying young Tory, but there’s also the slightest

touch of the nouveau about him: his father is a property developer who named

his first-born son after himself. (Hence the Carlton: it’s actually a middle

name, used to distinguish him from his dad.)

Carlton did not have a happy childhood. Sent off to boarding school at a young

age, he never really fit in with his peers, and spent most of his time at Eton

bullied and friendless. A bit of a nerd, he was good at mathematics, and retreated

into a world of maths problems and videogames. And his public school sheltered

him: he never needed to leave its walls, never needed to practice human interaction

with normal people – never even got much of an opportunity to meet girls.

At school, he scrounged some measure of self-confidence from his high grades,

while at home he learned contempt for the lazy poor from his father.

Today, then, Carlton judges people by how intelligent he thinks they are –

a very narrow criterion, which mainly has to do with how good they are at mathematics.

He has no interest in – indeed, very little comprehension of – the

type of insights that other people might have and he does not: for him, being

socially adept, for instance, is something to be envied, perhaps, but not admired.

Carlton even has a certain amount of contempt for his mother, who, despite the

fact that she’s responsible for maintaining basically all his family’s friendships,

doesn’t have the analytical nous of his father.

Eton persuaded Carlton that academic success was synonymous with intelligence,

even as his family’s wealth gave him an idea of how he was going to operate

successfully in the real world. All he needed to do was stay on the right side

of his parents, and he could end up running a fleet of flats in Fulham, making

a very nice income – something, with his head for figures, which he’d

probably do very well. Without his parents’ wealth and property, on the other

hand, he would be forced to fend for himself in a world in which he found it

extremely difficult to interact with people or understand what they were thinking.

Carlton’s entire future, then, was tied up in inheriting his father’s properties.

When he got accepted to Oxford to read mathematics, it was either the best or

the worst thing that could have happened to him, depending on your point of

view. He managed to go to the one place where he could remain coddled in privilege,

and get through three years of university without being forced into unpleasant

encounters with the real world. During the summer, his father got him an internship

in the mortgage department of an investment bank, where he worked long hours

in a testosterone-filled environment learning the virtues of hard work and the

rewards of analytical thinking.

Carlton is an adult now, albeit far from grown up; he has had the best education

money can buy, but doesn’t know who Dick Cheney is. All the same, he has political

opinions: "I’m a conservative," he charmingly says, "because

my parents are loaded". Pushed on the subject, he’ll go as far as to say

that state education should be abolished altogether: if you can’t afford an

education, you shouldn’t get one.

A moment’s reflection, of course, would lead Carlton to realise what a stupid

idea that is – but somehow his education hasn’t trained him to think in

that way. His world is almost unthinkably narrow: it doesn’t include things

like social mobility and economic growth, but consists mainly of video games

and maths problems. In the ridiculously overspecialised world of the English

university, that’s not going to change.

Occasionally, of course, Carlton does meet people from outside his upper-class

bubble of landed privilege. The problem is that it doesn’t take most of them

long to work out that they don’t really like him, so he remains largely untouched

by the outside world, and reinforced in his belief that, well, nobody really

likes him. He’s driven increasingly inwards, into a world where self-pity takes

over from any idea that he might be able to change himself into someone that

people get on with.

I have no idea how all this is going to end up. My guess is that the chances

of Carlton seeing the world, opening his horizons, and getting some perspective

on his family’s place in the grand scheme of things are probably diminishing

quickly at this point. The English public school system has failed him, and

has created someone as well-rounded as a Donald Judd cube. What’s more, his

father was probably much the same, and if Carlton ever does find someone to

marry and settle down with (probably by sheer force of pounds sterling), his

son might well carry on the family tradition. Evelyn Waugh understood this,

but so did Philip Larkin.

Posted in Culture | 1 Comment

WTC worries

I’ve long

been a cheerleader for the WTC redevelopment. Even when others started griping,

I was still optimistic about

the prospects for the site and the likelihood that it could become a vibrant

and world-beating neighborhood. In recent days, however, I’ve started getting

a little more pessimistic, the release of a very

sexy new site rendering notwithstanding.

The new picture is interesting for a couple of reasons. For one thing, the

Freedom Tower pictured is almost exactly the same, as far as I can tell, as

the one which was unveiled

nine months ago. That Freedom Tower was a last-minute thrown-together compromise,

and since then the foundation stone has been laid, and some kind of construction

has begun.

There are two possibilities here. The first is that over the course of the

past nine months, zero progress has been made on what the tower is going to

look like, especially its upper half. The second is that David Childs and Larry

Silverstein do have a good idea of what they’re building, but they’re keeping

it secret – maybe because they fear what the public and/or Daniel Libeskind

might think of the changes. Neither of these two possibilities makes me particularly

hopeful about the future of construction on the WTC site.

That said, there is one obvious difference between this rendering and the one

which was released in July. Look at the trelliswork at the top: the old rendering

is on the left, the new one is on the right.

Doesn’t it look to you that the top of the Freedom Tower has been glazed?

If you magnify the image even further, it’s clear that the buildings viewed

through the top of the tower are much less clear than the ones viewed to the

side – DBox, the renderers, clearly want it to look as though we’re looking

through glass. What’s more, the windmills, which were never much in evidence

to start with, seem to have disappeared altogether. Is the top of the Freedom

Tower going to become a useless glass box? I do hope not.

My guess is that neither rendering looks much like what we’re eventually going

to get. I stand by what I said

in February: the spire will look very different from what it’s being rendered

as right now, the sloping roof is likely to go, and there’ll be some kind of

observation deck at the very top.

And the really big picture, of course, is that the Freedom Tower is a camel.

As Paul Goldberger explains in his new

book, it’s essentially the product of wishful thinking by George Pataki,

who somehow managed to convince himself that David Childs and Daniel Libeskind

– both big-time architects with a strong impression of what the new tower

should look like, and an even stronger conviction that the other guy was wrong

– could somehow be forced to fruitfully collaborate on the skyscraper.

It was never going to happen, and the final building is quite probably worse

than either man would have come up with on his own – although I daresay

it’s better than Childs’ Bear Stearns building in midtown.

Other

bits of the new rendering are also interesting. Look at the detail on the left:

not only has Dey Street

been restored, but Cortlandt Street is just visible as a vehicular street as

well. That’s good news: it shows that in at least one design shop New York City

has won out over the floor plate Nazis, although of course none of this is final.

The one thing I can’t work out is the jagged reflection in the office tower

behind Santiago Calatrava’s PATH terminal. It seems to be the reflection of

some kind of building, but which building is not at all clear. This is actually

the most annoying part of the rendering: I would much have preferred an idea

of what we’re going to see in four or five years, rather than a wishful-thinking

plan including four large office towers which probably won’t be built for decades

and in any case won’t look anything like this if and when they are built. Hidden

behind the middle two, for instance, is most of the Wedge of Light and all of

the Millenium Hilton: I still don’t really have any idea of how the PATH station

and the Wedge of Light are meant to interact and point pedestrian traffic coming

from the Brooklyn Bridge, say, down towards the memorial.

What we do see quite clearly in this rendering is the memorial, and the way

in which it’s almost entirely at grade. Libeskind’s pit of memory is long gone,

and what remains of the slurry wall will be as nothing compared to the edifice

which so impressed Libeskind and the people who chose his design from the shortlist.

More generally, when I reread what I wrote back in 2002, I feel a sense of opportunity

squandered:

It all starts down in the dirt, by the huge slurry walls which stop the Hudson

River from rushing in to the site. These were and are true engineering marvels:

as Liebeskind says, they "withstood the unimaginable trauma of the destuction

and stand eloquent". He keeps them exposed, 70 feet below ground, and

then spirals up and out, into the rest of the site and beyond.

At the bottom is the museum and the memorial; at the top is a vertical "gardens

of the world", rising in a glorious spike well above the rest of the

skyline. The buildings in the rest of the site are extremely strong as well,

especially the ones which border on what Liebeskind rather unfortunately calls

the "wedge of light". This is a triangular plaza which will have

no shadows each year on September 11 between the hours of 8:46am and 10:28am.

It’s mirrored by the Heroes Park, one of three or four green spaces in the

plan.

What’s left of this vision? The slurry walls are gone, the spiral walkway is

gone, the gardens of the world are gone, the spike is rapidly going, the wedge

of light won’t have no shadows at the crucial time, thanks to the Millenium

Hilton, the Heroes Park has all but disappeared… as Goldberger says, Libeskind’s

plan has been "ground down" to the point at which we can reasonably

ask ourselves why we needed a major architectural name to design the WTC site

at all. With all the compromises which have been made, it’s looking increasingly

as though the high-profile competition was little more than a shiny toy which

took the eyes of the public off the places where the real decisions were being

made – mainly the offices of George Pataki and Larry Silverstein.

As Goldberger says, what was needed here was someone with a strong vision and

the ability to make it happen – someone like Francois Mitterand, who did

something similar in Paris. Pataki was not that man; I have a feeling that New

York’s deputy mayor Dan Doctoroff, with the wholehearted backing of Michael

Bloomberg, might have been.

New York City, which has had very, very little say in the development of the

WTC site, had a wonderful plan for Lower Manhattan as a whole, much of which

– especially housing – has been jettisoned by the Port Authority

and the LMDC. The cooks in charge of this particular broth were the wrong ones,

I fear: some deal surely could have been done whereby New York City received

the land under the World Trade Center from the Port Authority, in return for

the land under JFK and LaGuardia airports. Doctoroff would then have had much

more power, Pataki would have had much less, and there might well have been

many fewer compromises along the way.

Just look at the results of the competition for the cultural buildings: the

Joyce Theater and the Drawing Center are going to be the anchor tenants at the

new site, because their competition, mainly the New York City Opera, was considered

to be too big to fit into the small gaps remaining between office buildings.

I’m all for facing up to realities, but there comes a point where you simply

can’t give office buildings which might never be built priority over an institution

like the New York City Opera, which isn’t all that big to start with. If Ground

Zero is too small to accommodate one medium-to-large cultural institution, then

there has to be a strong case for revisiting the whole question of why so much

space has to be set aside for offices.

I might look as though I’m contradicting myself here: Last September, I wrote

that

In theory, Silverstein could be bought off with a cash settlement rather

than office space. But he doesn’t seem to understand the cashflow situation

here: far from the taxpayer giving money to Silverstein to go away, Silverstein

is actually the central, necessary source of funds for rebuilding the WTC

site in the first place. It is Silverstein who held the insurance contracts

on the World Trade Center, you see, and without those insurance proceeds,

nothing is going to get built on the site at all.

But the situation has changed. Silverstein’s insurance payout is barely going

to be able to cover the cost of the Freedom Tower, after his legal expenses

and his rent to the Port Authority have been paid. Yes, Silverstein does have

a contractual right to rebuild 10 million square feet of office space –

but surely there’s a case to be made for crossing that bridge when we come to

it. No one expects Silverstein to exercise that clause in his contract any time

soon, and in the meantime there’s a whole new neighborhood to be built.

I went to a press conference

with Daniel Libeskind this week, and if I’ve learned anything from being a journalist

for the past ten years, it’s that the fewer questions someone answers, the more

worried they are. Libeskind, on Wednesday, answered very few questions, and

fell back time and time again on the stock answers that he’s been wheeling out

for the past two years. The only news we got was regarding new projects of his,

nothing pertaining to Ground Zero, where I get the feeling he’s been doing very

little work this year.

I would like to think that Libeskind will get the commission to design at least

one of the new cultural buildings, and that being able to get involved with

the minutiae of a real building on the site will bring his enthusiasm and involvement

levels back up. But the bigger battle has been lost, I think: at every turn

since the initial choice of Libeskind as master planner, political realities

have trumped the larger vision. While I’m still optimistic for the neighborhood

in the long run, I don’t think it’s going to be the greatest piece of urban

planning that the world has ever seen. And it should have been.

Posted in Culture | 19 Comments

Waiting for fabulous things

Today is the first day of New York Fashion Week, when the world’s fashion industry

descends on Bryant Park for a sleepless round of shows, parties and gossip.

The magazine industry loves it, of course, with the September issue of Vogue

setting a record for the largest monthly consumer magazine ever. (It has 648

ad pages, and 832 pages altogether.)

This week, however, the New Yorker has decided not to do a fashion issue –

maybe ad buyers have worked out that fashionistas don’t read. But two years

ago it did, with a 8,900-word profile

of Puff Daddy by Michael Specter. Hard-hitting journalism this was not:

Sean John, the clothing company he started three years ago, has emerged as

one of the best-selling–and most highly regarded–men’s lines in America.

Combs’s runway show in New York last fall met with praise from even the most

skeptical fashion professionals. "It was better than anything in Europe,"

Kim Hastreiter, the editor of Paper, the downtown fashion magazine, told me.

"It was perfectly presented, perfectly original American fashion."

One day while I was in Paris, I ran into Richard Buckley, who is the editor

of Vogue Hommes International. "I just got an e-mail from this writer

who asked me who I thought mattered in men’s clothes these days," Buckley

told me. "I said the only man who is doing anything important is Puff

Daddy. Right now, he is all we got."

The idea behind Sean John was great. As any visitor to the USA knows, men here

are not well dressed. Most of the time they’re in jeans and t-shirts, or maybe

short-sleeved polo shirts; menswear is chosen for comfort and value, and is

often bought at Wal-Mart. When men do dress up, in a suit and shirt and tie,

the suit is likely to be a nasty $199 thing, and the tie polyester. With Sean

John, the idea, as his designer said in the Specter article, was to target "a

man who aspires to wear Gucci one day and Prada one day and to be able to afford

the custom Zegna suits" – and give him quality clothes at a price

within the bounds of possibility.

The entire fashion industry seemed to be on board: Sean John suits, when they

got sent down the catwalk, had a kind of Dolce & Gabbana edge to them, a

stylishness which has long been absent from US menswear. Frankly, I wanted one.

But the two New York Sean John shops which were meant to materialise in 2003

never happened, and, as far as I could work out, there wasn’t a single retail

outlet on planet earth where these things were actually available for sale.

(Trust me: I looked quite hard.)

Finally, this week, a Sean John store finally opened in New York – right

on Bryant Park, actually – just in time for Fashion Week. I popped in

there yesterday, and, surprise surprise – no suits. "They’re coming

in October," a salesman told me. But I’m not holding my breath. A similar

state of affairs obtains with the long-rumoured Ozwald

Boateng store in New York: we’ve been hearing about it for years, but we

still don’t seem to be any closer to actually seeing it.

We don’t, despite appearances, actually live in a world of instant gratification.

In fact, we live in a world of advance hype, where movies are advertised more

before they come out than afterwards, where magazines are more interested in

the future than in the present, where many items, especially in the world of

technology, have an aura of obsolescence even on the day they’re released.

Techology-related products and services are often, in fact, the worst offenders:

whether it be wireless number

portability or G5 Xserves,

we’re often waiting forever for things to come along.

It’s now been well over two years, for instance, since Samsung announced its

SGH-i500, a GSM flip-phone running the Palm operating system. This was something

I was immediately attracted to – I’d love to be able to combine my phone

and Palm Pilot in one device, and be able to run my favourite Palm application,

Vindigo, on it. But no dice: it’s since transmogrified into the i505, the i530

and the i550, but not one of them has yet actually come to market. I’m probably

going to just give in and get a Treo

650 instead, even though I really don’t want all the email functionality,

full qwerty keyboard, and the rest. Although I do have to note that the Treo

600, too, took forever to come out in a GSM version: for some reason, GSM Palm

phones always seem to be horribly delayed.

It’s reached the point, now, where companies are actually telling people not

to get excited about forthcoming innovations. After Newsweek reported

that Tivo was going to team up with Netflix to offer, essentially, movies on

demand, both companies went into rapid-rebuttal

mode:

Netflix spokeswoman Lynn Brinton said there was no formal relationship between

her company and TiVo, nor was there a timeline to form one. TiVo spokeswoman

Kathryn Kelly told Bloomberg News that the company would not offer a movie

download service for at least a year.

Broadband is one of the areas where people get very

excited about what might happen in the future. Om Malik greatly understates

the reality when he says that "venture capitalists have put a value of

$867 per customer" on Vonage – he gets that figure by dividing Vonage’s

$208 million in total VC funding by its 240,000 customers. In fact, although

we have no idea what kind of valuation the VCs bought in at with their latest

$105 million investment, I can guarantee you that it’s a lot more than $208

million.

On the broader question, however, Om is right: Vonage is overpriced –

and so are Netflix and Tivo, if investors are buying them on the basis of movie

delivery over broadband pipes. Vonage and Netflix and Tivo are all small startups

with bright ideas who do what they do better than anybody else. But put them

up against AT&T, Wal-Mart and Time Warner, respectively, and they look like

complete underdogs, their first-mover advantage notwithstanding. The barriers

to entry in all of their businesses are far too low to justify high valuations

on these companies – the best they can hope for is that they get bought

out as a strategic investment by a giant like Microsoft.

Broadband has enabled lots of great technologies, of which VoIP is only one.

I’m far from convinced, however, that anybody’s going to make any money off

it. The bandwidth itself has already been commoditised, as have wireless router

technology and digital video recorders. Once the movie industry comes up with

some kind of DRM system for downloadable films, multiple sources will offer

that, too, and Apple won’t be out in front like it is with music. (How long

Apple will keep its pole position is also unknown, now that Microsoft has entered

the fray.) While I love my broadband technologies, and wouldn’t dream of giving

up my Vonage phone (a recent 113-minute phone call to Argentina cost me just

$5.65), I equally wouldn’t dream of investing in any of these companies. The

time between now and profitability is likely to make the wait for a nice affordable

suit seem positively Lilliputian.

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